Sacred Steps: La Ruta del Cister

The Way of the Cistercians connects the holy trinity of Catalan Monasteries.

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La Ruta del Cister (the Cistercian Route) is a walking trail connecting Catalunya’s three most prestigious Cistercian monasteries: Santes Creus, Poblet and Vallbona de les Monges. This picturesque route—a 105 kilometer, circular section of the GR 175 hiking trail—takes you through rural countryside and ancient villages against a backdrop of the soaring Prades Mountains. It can be broken up in several different places and doesn’t have to be attempted all at once.  

The Route

The Reial Monestir de Santes Creus is the first on the route and, indeed, the first Cistercian monastery to be built in Catalunya, although it’s now the only one without a religious order. Building work started in 1174 and was finished around 1225. The monastery is known for its royal tombs and is the final resting place of King Pere III and his son, King Jaume II. Open Tuesday-Sunday.

From Santes Creus to Poblet: 34.9 km

Estimated time: 7 hr 45 min.

If you’re doing this part of the route in two stages, it is recommended to stay the night in either Prenafeta or Montblanc.

The UNESCO World Heritage Monestir de Santa Maria de Poblet was founded in 1151. It is the largest and most complete monastery on the Cistercian Route and, indeed, in the whole world, with its austerity, majesty and fortified royal palace making it an impressive sight. Peter IV of Aragon made a solemn oath that all Aragonese kings be buried here, an oath only Ferdinand II of Aragon broke after his kingdom was merged with the Kingdom of Castile.  

Monastic life was halted with the seizure of church lands in 1835, after which the complex suffered at the hands of plunderers and fires, falling into disrepair. During this time, the tombs of the Kings of Aragon were desecrated and the remains were transferred to the Tarragona Cathedral. In 1930 reconstruction began, and in 1940 monastic life was returned, as were the remains of the deceased of the Royal House of Aragon.  

From Poblet to Vallbona de Les Monges: 25.6 km

Time: 6 hr 30 min.

This part of the route is best to do in one go, as the only town with accommodation is Espluga de Francolí, just 2.5 kilometers from Poblet Monastery—it’s not a halfway point. Alternatively, you could make Espluga de Francolí your starting point, making sure you give yourself a full day to explore the attractions of this medieval town.

The Reial Monestir de Vallbona de Les Monges is set in the tiny village of the same name. Built in a mix of Romanesque and Gothic styles, this is the only convent on the Cistercian Route, and the only one in which monastic life has continued uninterrupted since its founding. It has been home to an order of nuns for over 800 years.  

From Vallbona de Les Monges to Santes Creus: 43.7 km

Time: 10 hr.

Stay the night in: Rocafort de Queralt.

Where to Stop Off en Route

PRENAFETA is an ancient village with a population of around 61 people. Here you can explore the eerie ruins of the old village abandoned in the 18th century. Walk down paved medieval roads and discover the ruined Church of Sant Salvador and visit the ruins of the 12th century castle at the top of a hill, overlooking the village. Mas de la Planella, a stone-built, former farmhouse, offers comfortable accommodation with a swimming pool, garden and barbecue. The in-house restaurant, Cal Gaya, has a traditional, Catalan menu.  

MONTBLANC’S well preserved defensive walls and gateways hide a labyrinth of medieval streets within. There are a number of restaurants to choose from in this village but El Call de Montblanc, Sant Josep 18, is worth a visit. Housed in a small palace dating from the 14th century, this restaurant serves up traditional Catalan cuisine.

ESPLUGA DE FRANCOLÍ is home to an extensive network of caves used by humans since the Paleolithic period. One of the caves, Font Major, houses a museum and is open Tuesday-Sunday. Accommodation can be found here in an old, 17th century, country house Casa Pairal Espasa, Carrer de la Font Major.

Portal del Bonet and Portal de la Font mark the medieval entryways to the small village of ROCAFORT DE QUERALT. Accommodation can be found at Casa L’Arassa. Montbrió 9. Set in a traditional country house, this hotel combines original features with a modern style and has a swimming pool.

Originally published August 1, 2018, updated December 27, 2022.