La Garrotxa: Land of Volcanoes

La Garrotxa is arguably one of the most beautiful regions in Catalunya. Located among the foothills of the Pyrenees in the province of Girona, this sparsely populated, fertile land is filled with high ridges, deep valleys, rivers and forests and boasts over 40 volcanic cones. Its numerous small villages and farms that dot the landscape still preserve a rural lifestyle and a rich culinary heritage.

Among Catalunya’s comarques (counties), La Garrotxa is a shining star. Unassumingly situated in the midst of six other counties, this mountainous, northern region offers visitors an impressive roster of must-see sights (not to mention must-eat foods as well). Though passed over by some for its lack of beach-holiday amenities, the area attracts numerous visitors who come for its spectacular natural parks, the culture and beauty of medieval towns like Santa Pau and Besalú and the region’s highly prized gastronomical tradition.

The Roman road of Capsacosta is as good a place as any to start a cultural exploration of Garrotxa. Built around 200 BCE, it formed the main artery from the Pyrenees to the northern Catalan coast for some 2,000 years, an indispensable transport link for generations of farmers, soldiers, traders and civilians. From the Vall de Bianya, an area that forms part of Garrotxa’s volcanic park, there are various routes to try. For example, a 15-kilometer excursion that loops from the town of Sant Salvador de Bianya to St. Pau de Segúries and back again should satiate anyone’s appetite for following in Roman footsteps.

Besalú

Moving through the centuries, the towns of Besalú and Santa Pau highlight the beauty of medieval art and architecture. Though today a modest place, Besalú was for centuries a seat of great importance—first to the Romans and then to the various independent earldoms that followed, and it still boasts a plethora of Romanesque structures, including the 12th-century Monestir de Sant Pere, with its unique ambulatory, and the iconic fortified bridge with its seven irregular arches.

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Plaça-dels-Jueus,-Besalú-photo-courtesy-of-the-Generalitat-de-CAtalunya.jpg

Plaça dels Jueus, Besalú, photo courtesy of the Generalitat de Catalunya.

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El mikveh, the Jewish bathhouse in Besalú, photo courtesy of Tourisme Garrotxa.

Sephardic Besalú

Besalú’s most recognized monument is the impressive 11th-century Pont Vell, the fortified medieval bridge that leads into the town. However, a walk through its medieval streets reveals clues to its Jewish past. The village's most significant historical treasure is the 12th-century mikveh (Jewish ceremonial bath) located on the site of the former synagogue of Besalú. The bathhouse was discovered by chance during excavations in 1964, and was the first of its kind to be discovered in Spain.

From the Plaça dels Jueus (Jew’s Square), a set of stairs descends into the impressively well-preserved, underground enclosure that once captured the river’s waters. Guided visits are offered through the Tourist Office for €2.25 per person, (reservations required).

Santa Pau

Santa Pau, which sits in the midst of the Volcanic Zone National Park, is a medieval village with an old quarter marked by gateways, arches, cobblestone streets and wooden balconies that drip with flowers. (You might recognize it from “Ocho apellidos catalanes,” the sequel to hit Spanish movie “Ocho apellidos vascos.”)  The Plaça Major (or Firal dels Bous), the arcaded main square that is presided over by the Santa Maria church, narrows into the many twisting alleyways that lead to the Portal del Mar, which in turn offers lovely views of the surrounding valleys and Romanesque churches. Many of these can be reached by foot and offer fabulous volcanic vistas.

Olot

Garrotxa’s capital, Olot, has a fine example of Renaissance architecture in its Claustres del Carme, but its importance to Garrotxa’s cultural heritage is most notably comprised by two artistic movements: the Olot School, a 19th-century trend in landscape painting that produced many excellent works now housed in the Museu Comarcal de la Garrotxa; and Modernisme, the 19th-century architectural movement that saw the streets of the city transformed by architects like Lluís Domenech i Montaner and Josep Azemar. Interested visitors can follow the Ruta del Modernisme, a walking route mapped out by the Olot town council to show off the highlights of the movement’s effect on the city.

Zona Volcanica de la Garrotxa

From the 40-plus volcanoes in the south to the dramatic cliffs and gorges of the north, the comarca’s landscape is a wonderland for nature enthusiasts. The Zona Volcanica de la Garrotxa is best explored on foot, and those with enough self-motivation and leg muscles to match will find that the 28 trails of this natural park lead to some spectacular natural sights (extinct volcanoes, towering oaks and beeches) as well as cultural ones (Romanesque hermitages, first-millennia churches). Most of the paths are sign-posted and many join up with the extensive Itinerànnia footpath network, which consists of more than 2,000 routes from Ripollès to Garrotxa to Alt Empordà.

Espai Natural de l’Alta Garrotxa

In the north, the Espai Natural de l’Alta Garrotxa has five hiking trails that pass through some of the most phenomenal landscapes in all the Pyrenees, most of which coincide with the Itinerànnia paths. The cliffs’ harsh rock façades are complemented by formidable forests, wildlife (the many rare bird species in the area will be of particular interest to some visitors) and deep green valleys. Archaeological sites and farmhouses are often all that attest to human activity in this wild landscape.

What to Eat

The gastronomy of the Garrotxa is a huge draw, with its enticing blend of both the traditional cuina volcànica—making use of locally grown black turnips, truffles, beans and buckwheat—and the creative volcànica nova movement that focuses on innovation through unique flavor combinations. New interpretations of classic dishes are the order of the day, and there is a somewhat intimidating number of restaurants (several with Michelin stars) carrying this off successfully.

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Originally published November 2008, updated October 5, 2021.