Pont de l'Olivar over the Riu Senia near Ulldecona. Photo by GemmaG Photography (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
Like many towns in Catalunya, Ulldecona in the southern comarca (county) of Montsià has been a coveted location for various groups throughout history. Ulldecona is a relatively small town, but in and around this small community there is a surprising amount of historical diversity. Although the presence of former inhabitants has been well documented, it was just over 40 years ago that an amazing discovery was made, which showed that the first settlers in the area had come much earlier than previously thought.
Ruta de l'Art Rupestre
On a March day in 1975, a 12-year-old boy was out exploring in the Serra de Godall, just north of the town and came across a tiny cave just 2.5 meters wide and 1.5 meters high. When he looked further inside he noticed some red figures painted directly onto the walls. The discovery prompted thorough searches of the area and over the next seven years, 13 more abrics (shelters or caves) were located in the Serra de Godall, containing over 400 images. Exhaustive archaeological studies have revealed that these paintings are prehistoric, dating back to between 6,000 BCE and 4,000 BCE.
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Abrics d'Ermites, photo by DagafeSQV (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
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Abrics d'Ermites, photo by DagafeSQV (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
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Abrics d'Ermites, photo by DagafeSQV (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
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Abrics d'Ermites, photo by DagafeSQV (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Some are examples of Neolithic Levantine art painted in a naturalist style and others are more schematic or abstract indicating they were painted slightly later. Collectively, they provide an invaluable insight into how people lived during these times. While some have eroded through thousands of years of exposure to the elements, leaving only partial images, an outstanding number of the paintings remain practically intact. The main subjects are hunt scenes painted in shades of deep red, brown or black, which include detailed images of archers shooting at deer and other animals frantically trying to escape the onslaught of arrows.
A number of artifacts have also been found in the area, such as flint arrowheads and tools, as well as fragments of ceramic and necklaces. The majority of the paintings are located in small, shallow caves ranging from one to 10 meters in length, with heights between one and five meters. A few of the larger caves are open to the public and those that are situated above the natural pathways are accessed by metal ladders permanently fixed into the mountain side and protected by barriers.
Ulldecona’s cave paintings form part of the Ruta de l'Art Rupestre (Cave Painting Route) of southern Catalunya, along with sites at Montblanc and El Cogul. The importance of their discovery has not only been recognized by local and national bodies but also at an international level and in 1998, these three and all other prehistoric cave painting sites on the Mediterranean side of Spain were declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.
Ermita de la Mare de Déu de la Pietat.
Ermita de la Pietat
The Ermita de la Mare de Déu de la Pietat (Sanctuary of the Virgin of Sorrows) in the foothills of the Serra de Godall, houses a visitor center for the 11 Abrics de l'Ermita (just south of the sanctuary). The center opened in 2005 and includes a comprehensive exhibition detailing the history behind the paintings and their discovery with photographs of individual images and scenes. The sanctuary—named after Ulldecona’s patron saint—is in a beautiful and peaceful location, surrounded by lush vegetation and is also overlooked by the taller peaks of El Montsià. As well as the present church, the site also contains former chapels of Romanesque and Gothic origin. The sanctuary is easy to spot even from a distance of a few kilometers, as its white buildings really stand out against the dark green backdrop. The more recent additions of a bar and extensive terrace make it a popular stopping off point for hill walkers, as well as others passing by. In the evenings the Ermita is also sometimes used as a venue for cultural activities, such as concerts of different styles of music including flamenco, jazz, bossa nova and traditional Catalan.
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Poblat Ibèric de la Moleta del Remei.
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Ermita de la Mare de Déu del Remei, photo by DagafeSQV (CC BY-SA 3.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Poblat Ibèric de la Moleta del Remei
To the southeast of Ulldecona lies l’Ermita de la Mare de Déu del Remei and next to it at the top of a hill are the ruins of Moleta del Remei, one of the most important Catalan Iberian settlements. At over 4,000 square meters, it is one of the largest pre-Iberian settlements in the entire northeast of the Peninsula and it was home to a community of up to 500 people. Belonging to the Ilercavons tribe, it is one of the few Iberian settlements that was constantly inhabited from the 7th to the 2nd century BCE.
The village's walled enclosure would have dominated the southern part of the Sierra del Montsià allowing its inhabitants to control trade between the Ebro River and the Mediterranean. The settlement's urban layout is in a surprisingly good state of preservation. Structured as an enclosed area behind thick walls criss-crossed by streets, you can clearly see the rectangular layout of the houses joined to the wall, and a series of areas used for different activities from communal and private areas to facilities where cultural, economic and political activities were carried out by the villagers. Excavations have uncovered evidence of the presence of grain storage areas, slaughterhouses, metal works, burial sites and several sets of tools. La Moleta del Remei is part of the Iberian Route of the Museum of Archeology of Catalunya. Archaeological materials from the settlement are on display at the Casa O'Connor Interpretation Center in the neighboring village of Alcanar.
As you walk up the path from the hermitage to the Iberian ruins you'll pass a grove of massive, twisted olive trees. Ulldecona's extensive municipal area covers 126 square kilometers and contains 1,379 millennium olive trees, which makes it home to the world's largest known concentration of these ancient olive trees. The vast majority are located on the slopes of the Montsià and Godall mountain ranges, but you can see some these impressive trees right next to the Ermita de la Mare de Déu del Remei.
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Castell de Ulldecona, photo by Gordito1869, via Wikimedia Commons.
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Castell de Ulldecona, photo by Bob Masters courtesy of Generalitat de Catalunya (CC BY-NC-ND 3.0 ES).
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Castell de Ulldecona, photo by Bob Masters courtesy of Generalitat de Catalunya (CC BY-NC-ND 3.0 ES).
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Castell de Ulldecona
Just west of Ulldecona stands another important historical monument which is a legacy left by settlers from different eras. The hilltop Castell de Ulldecona was built during the Moorish era on the site of a former Iberian settlement, and in 1148 was conquered by Ramón Berenguer IV. In the late 12th century, it became the property of the military Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, who built the characteristic square and round towers, which still remain today and have recently undergone restoration. The square tower offers great vantage points for views of Montsià and Ulldecona to the east, and looking west to El Maestrat just over the border into Valencia. When the first charter of Ulldecona was passed in 1222, the town was still situated within the castle grounds and it was not until 1274 that it moved into its current location on the plains of la Foia. The castle is now owned by the Ajuntament, and is often referred to as the castell medieval.
Within the town center, there’s a whole collage of architectural styles, and in just walking around for a few minutes you'll see buildings from many different centuries. The historic center with its narrow medieval streets was surrounded by a wall up until the 19th century. One of the most interesting buildings in the center is the 14th-century Catalan Gothic Església de Sant Lluc (Church of Saint Luke) in the Plaça de l’Eglésia. Located just a few feet away, is the Modernist Casa de la Feligresa, with its decorated façade, the work of Cèsar Martinell who also designed the old stone molí de l'oli (olive oil mill)—in a less desirable location next to the railway line. A number of religious buildings have been converted from their original use such as the Dominican convent that now houses the Ajuntament and the old Església del Roser which is now home to the Casa de Cultura, the municipal arts center.
Millennium olive trees near Ulldecona. Photo by Gordito1869 (CC BY-SA 4.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Getting There
By train: Direct services run from Barcelona Estació de França, Passeig de Gràcia and Sants to Ulldecona and takes approximately three hours. Round trip tickets are from €25 to €40 renfe.es
By bus: Hife runs a direct service from Barcelona to Ulldecona and takes approximately three hours. Round trip tickets are from €30 to €50 hife.es
By car: Take the C32 heading southwest until the end and join the A7/E15 at junction 31. Continue south until 42. Then follow signs to Ulldecona. Distance from Barcelona is about 200 kilometers.
More Info
Ulldecona Turisme Tel: 977 573 394 turismeulldecona.cat
Ruta de l'Art Rupestre rutadelartrupestre.cat
Ruta dels Ibers rutadelsibers.cat
Ruta de les Oliveres Mil·lenàries oliveresmillenaries.com
Published March 2007, updated May 22, 2022.