Castell de Rocafort, Pont de Vilomara i Rocafort. Photo by Carlos Iborra.
The comarca of Bages (pronounced “BAH-jehs”) is central to Catalunya in both location and its place in Catalan culture, offering countryside and many towns to explore near the stunning Montserrat mountain range.
Bages has enjoyed periods of prosperity since the 13th century, thanks to its rich natural resources and hardworking people. When faced with a drought in the 14th century, a canal was constructed to bring water from the nearby Llobregat River. The local bishop initially refused the project but later changed his mind – following an alleged miracle in which a mysterious light emanated from Montserrat — and La Sèquia canal has operated ever since. Interest in the area boomed in the wake of St. Ignatius, leading to many buildings built in his honor and workshops dedicated to religious art. Later, the industrial revolution brought greater prosperity in the form of silk and textile exports.
Montserrat Mountain
There is plenty to see and do in Bages’ capital, Manresa, offering beautiful examples of Baroque, medieval and modernista architecture. The town is set on a slope, making for some steep streets that are heavy-going but worth the effort. On one of the upper parts is La Seu, a 14th-century Gothic church whose cavernous interior has an interesting selection of religious art. Not far from La Seu is the International Center of Spirituality (previously called the Casa d'Exercicis), an enormous neoclassical building that marks the spot where, in the 16th century, Basque soldier Ignatius Loyola (later canonized as St. Ignatius) discovered his vocation and wrote his “Spiritual Exercises” as a guide for the devout.
Just beyond Manresa is the unmistakable Montserrat, the holiest mountain in Catalunya. A geological anomaly, its rounded limestone peaks couldn’t be more different from the surrounding countryside. There have been chapels on the mountain since the end of the 9th century. Nowadays Montserrat is renowned for its hikes, chapel, La Moreneta statue of the Virgin Mary and boys’ choir, which is apparently the oldest of its kind in Europe and sings twice daily during the week. (It’s worth calling ahead to confirm.)
Casa Museu el Puig de la Balma, Mura. Photo by Angela Llop.
Although Bages is best known for Montserrat, there is so much more on offer. The area is teeming with hilly forests and striking rocky outcrops. Castles and Romanesque buildings pepper the landscape, while the natural park of Sant Llorenç del Munt i I'Obac provides eye-catching flora and fauna. Within the confines of the park is the town of Mura, which is home to the Casa Museu El Puig de la Balma, a prime example of the houses that were built into rock in the 8th and 9th centuries. Meanwhile, in the northwest of the county sits the medieval town of Cardona as well as Cardona Salt Mountain, a great place to learn about the cultural and historical importance of salt. Visitors can enter the mountain and take a tour through its glistening stalagmites and stalactites.
Bages is also known for its cuina del secà (dryland cooking), featuring cap i pota (literally translates to “head and hock” and is made of stewed veal and often tripe) and bacallà a la manresana (salt cod with spinach, pine nuts, raisins, prunes and boiled egg). Sweet items have a strong religious connection, including panets de Sant Ignasi (sweet rolls flavored with vanilla, lemon, candied fruit, rum, raisins, marzipan and almonds) and ametlles de llum (almonds of light — praline-coated, toasted almonds covered in dark chocolate and rolled in almond bits).
Although the area is interesting all year round, November is a particularly interesting time to visit because of the biannual Fira Mediterrània of Manresa, a fair of traditional performances that includes processions, dance and street entertainment. From Barcelona, Manresa is just an hour by car or two hours by direct train from Plaça Espanya on the R5, making it perfect for day trips as well as long weekends.