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Casa de l'Ardiaca, Arxiu Històric de Barcelona. Photo by Vicente Zambrano González courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).
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The Casa de l'Ardiaca, photo by Oh-Barcelona (CC BY 2.0).
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Casa de l'Ardiaca, looking into the interior courtyard. Photo by Maria Rosa Ferre (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
At Carrer de Santa Llúcía 1, beside the cathedral, Barcelona’s most elaborate postbox can be found. It was designed by one of the city’s most celebrated Modernista architects and contains a feature that’s said to bring good fortune, along with being an allegory of justice.
The building where the postbox is located is better known today as the Casa de l’Ardiaca (the archdeacon’s house). However, its beginnings date back to the seventh century when it was erected as a fortified convent, using part of the ancient Roman wall in its structure. By the 15th century, the site was converted into the residency of the archdeacon and was remodeled in the Gothic style with Renaissance touches.
In 1895, the Coŀlegi d’Advocats de Barcelona (the Lawyer’s Association of Barcelona) moved its headquarters from Plaça Sant Felip Neri to the Casa de l’Ardiaca, entrusting renovations of the building to architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. Amongst the changes to be made was the installation of a postbox to the right-hand side of the main entrance.
Casa de l'Ardiaca, postbox detail. Photo by Angela Llop (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
A stately marble was chosen by Domènech i Montaner for the execution of the postbox, in which he sculpted swallows, ivy and a tortoise as his personal interpretation of justice. This artistic symbolism caused confusion when he first revealed the design, to which he responded: “Justice should be swift and support freedom (the swallows), however, due to immense tangles in administrative and bureaucratic procedures (the ivy), justice results in a painfully slow process (the tortoise).”
Needless to say, this decorative criticism of the legal system—represented alongside the coat of arms of the Coŀlegi d’Advocats de Barcelona—did not receive a positive reaction. The dean of the association demanded the design be changed. According to the story, after hearing the dean’s criticism, Domènech i Montaner replied, “Barristers and solicitors, partners in hell.” In the end, the design was approved, but not without opposition.
Barcelona City Council acquired the building in 1919, and two years later it was turned into the headquarters of the Arxiu Històric de la Ciutat de Barcelona (the historical archives of the city), which it still is today. When you visit, notice how the marble of the tortoise’s head and back are quite worn—it’s said that if you touch this spot you’ll be rewarded with a spell of good luck.