Amongst the many little coastal towns that dot the coast north of Barcelona, Sant Pol stands out for both its beaches and its history. Nestled in a cove between the larger towns of Calella and Canet de Mar, the town was founded as a cultural hub centered around the Benedictine monastery of Sant Pol de Maresme. Throughout the centuries, this charming village has seen its economic activity shift through viticulture, agriculture and industry to the current emphasis on tourism.
ERMITA DE SANT PAU
The remains of the former Benedictine monastery sit atop a small hill overlooking the town. Dating back to the 10th century, this hermitage displays a fusion of architectural styles. Only the apse and one window of the northern facade remain of the original building. Other elements date from later Romanesque times, following its fortification by the Viscount of Cabrera in the 13th century. From this vantage point, enjoy sweeping views across the town and the Mediterranean, which, on clear days, extend all the way to Montjuïc. Visitors can contact the local tourist office (oficina.turisme@santpol.cat) to view the inside. Guided tours are occasionally offered.
ARCHITECTURE
Like many towns in Catalunya, Sant Pol has its fair share of Modernista architecture. In the early 20th century, municipal architect Ignasi Mas i Morell designed a handful of houses channelling this iconic style. While all are privately owned, a casual stroll around the town allows you to discover the various facades. The most impressive is perhaps Can Planiol (1910) on Carrer Abat Deas, whose blue and white trencadís tiling and brown flowers add colour and flare to the winding street. Another emblematic building is Torre de la Plaça on Carrer Consulat del Mar. Morell built this seafront house between 1919 and 1922 for his brother, incorporating a mix of both Modernisme and Noucentisme elements.
BEACHES
Sant Pol has 10 beaches to its name. At the southern end, Platja de les Roques Blanques is a more wild stretch of beach popular with nudists. Going north, there are several smaller beaches on the town’s doorstep that offer rocky picnic spots as well as space to spread out and sunbathe. Metres away from the railway station is the town’s main beach, a cove shared between bathers and the Club Nàutic Sant Pol de Mar, while Platja del Morer is a quieter stretch just north of the centre. The picture perfect Platja Rocagrossa is a 20-minute walk from the train station in the direction of Calella.
EATING
Restaurant Banys Lluís
A family-run business for more than 90 years, this classic xiringuito on Platja del Morer offers an impressive range of seafood, from xipirons (baby squid) or espardenyes (sea cucumbers) to a good plate of arròs negre. Make sure to ask for a ‘platja’ table so you can kick off your shoes and enjoy your meal with the sand between your toes. Two courses with wine comes to approximately €35.
banyslluis.cat
Sant Pau
Opened by renowned chef Carme Ruscalleda in 1988, this three-star Michelin restaurant can’t go unmentioned. An intimate space overlooking the sea, here the main courses start at €49, while the full tasting menu costs €189. ruscalleda.cat
GETTING THERE
Take the R1 train from Plaça de Catalunya towards Blanes, Calella or Maçanet Massanes. A one-way ticket costs €5 and takes just over one hour. By car, take the motorway C-32 and leave at junction 117; the journey takes approximately 50 minutes.