Gaudi's Colonia Güell

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When, in 1890, industrialist and patron of the arts Eusebi Güell decided to move his textile mill away from the social unrest of Barcelona, he commissioned Antoni Gaudí to design Colonia Güell, a purpose-built industrial colony in Santa Coloma de Cervelló, 23km south-west of the city. Unlike many large business owners of the time, Güell was a compassionate employer dedicated to improving the working conditions of his many employees. As well as furnishing the colony with terraced housing, gardens, a school and shops, he enlisted the expertise of some of the leading Modernista architects of the time to enhance the aesthetic of the village. The result was a spacious village with many beautiful facades and details, including one of Gaudí’s lesser-known masterpieces.

The Crypt

Gaudí was charged with designing the centrepiece of the new village, its church. After 10 years of meticulous planning, the construction of the ambitious project began in 1899. With leaning pillars, centenary arches and a verisimilitude to nature, the building’s aesthetic incorporates much of the architectural innovation synonymous with the architect’s more famous projects. The plans combined aspects of traditional religious architecture with the idiosyncrasies of Gaudí’s creative genius; plans consisted of an upper and lower nave, a 40-metre-high belfry and trencadís mosaic tiling in the colours of the surrounding vegetation. However, the original plans remained unfinished. After the completion of the lower nave in 1914, the Güell family decided to stop funding the church. One year later, the nave was consecrated by the Bishop of Barcelona, and the church became popularly known as the Crypt.

Unesco World Heritage site

The Güell family sold the mill to the Bertrand i Serra family in 1945, but it didn’t cease production until 1973. In subsequent years, residents of the colony bought their properties, and public institutions took over the facilities and land. In 1990, Colonia Güell was declared a Unesco World Heritage Site. Local architects have since worked to refurbish many of the village’s buildings and complete the Crypt, which, although commonly argued to have detracted from its authenticity, has made the colony more visitor-friendly.  

Visiting Colonia Güell

As well as seeing the Crypt, it’s worth wandering around the surrounding streets and squares, which retain their Modernista charm. Entrance to Colonia Güell costs between €7 and €11.50, with the latter including a guided tour (Saturdays at 12pm in Spanish, Sundays at 12pm in Catalan). Winter opening hours are 10am-5pm Monday to Friday, and 10am-3pm at the weekend. Advance booking recommended.

Getting there

Take the S33, S8 or S4 FGC train from Plaça Espanya to Colonia Güell (20 minutes). Once there, cross the road and follow the blue signs towards the entrance.