Photo by ©Tara Shain.
Does your heart sink at the thought of another year battling the crowds on Portal del Angel? Feeling guilty for trying to solve the Christmas shop in one fell swoop online? Then it’s time to turn the whole sorry affair into something much more fun by treating yourself to a day out while getting the necessaries dealt with. Girona is just an hour and a quarter away by train (or 37 minutes on the AVE) and its pretty, compact old center is a wonderful place to spend a day. It has lots of quirky shops, cool eateries and cafés to keep the body nourished and watered, and lots of history to fill the soul.
Shopping in Girona
Most of the big high street brands are found in the newer part of town or in the Espai Girona shopping center outside the city. This means that the hordes of really serious local shoppers will be heading out there, leaving us to indulge ourselves in the much quainter retail therapy available in the little cobbled streets of the old town. That’s not to say that it doesn’t get busy, but it’s still a slower, calmer experience than most places pre-Christmas.
The old center is great shopping territory with lots of little botiques, craft shops and fabulous delicatessens. You’ll probably begin your day on La Rambla de la Llibertat. Developed in the 13th century to hold the municipal market, the street is characterized by its low arcades and unequal arches. It has long been the city’s commercial center and has several outstanding modernista buildings. In the summertime, this pedestrian, tree-lined street is a hive of activity, filled with terrace cafés, tourists and buskers. In winter, the street is reclaimed by the locals and lit up by the Fira de Nadal, with its stalls selling Christmas trees, ornaments and every detail a nativity scene could possibly need. You can find it at Plaça de la Independència from November 24, 2023 to January 5, 2024, 10:30-21:00 daily (except Dec 25, 26 and Jan 1).
From the Rambla, stroll around the adjacent little streets and you’ll find plenty of interesting shops. Particularly worth a mention are Carrer Nou and Carrer Ballesteries and, just across the Onyar River and reachable by way of a pedestrian bridge, is the narrow street of Santa Clara, home to lots of little independent shops.
Some of Our Favorite Shops
La Carpa
La Carpa is a small toy shop packed to the gills with imaginative toys and crafts. You can see a lot of their products on their website to help plan your shopping. Carrer de les Hortes, 11
Colmado Moriscot
Step back into the last century in this beautiful modernista colmado. Built in 1908, it conserves many original details and is packed with liquors, wines, infusions, spices, cookies and traditional sweets, craft beers, local sausages from the Empordà and so much more. Carrer dels Ciutadans, 4
Xocolates i Bombons Gluki
The artisanal chocolatiers at Gluki make the whole sumptuous range themselves using quality ingredients following recipes handed down through the generations. Carrer Nou, 9
Portal del Coleccionista
This little shop is a paradise for bibliophiles and collectors; it’s packed floor to ceiling with old documents, books, engravings, photographs, postcards from around the world, unusual trinkets and charming knick-knacks from another era. Carrer de la Força, 25
La Noucentista
For the foodie on your list you can’t go wrong with a bundle of goodies from legendary cheese shop La Noucentista. Its founder, Xavi Baig has cultivated a selection of more than 1,000 sausages, preserves, wines, beers, chocolates, coffees and artisan cheeses from Spain, France, Italy, England and, of course, Catalunya. Carrer del Migdia, 22
Zurilla
At Zurilla you’ll find a collection of quality artisan items; this little shop has everything from contemporary textiles made in Olot to handmade leather bags, mohair blankets made in Ezcaray and small furniture items. This mother-daughter team seeks quality products with a story behind them, so it's a great place to discover unique ceramic pieces, wood carvings, teapots or sculptures for that hard-to-buy-for person on your list. Carrer de les Ballesteries, 10
Eva Lozano
Eva Lozano crafts her jewelry locally in her workshop shop in Plaça del Vi where you can see her working on each piece in minute detail. In her shop on Carrer de Santa Clara you’ll find small wearable works of art inspired by elements of nature. Her bracelets, rings, earrings and necklaces are simplicity and elegance crafted in sterling silver. Carrer de Santa Clara, 46
Broc-Art
Isabel Prat turned this little shop run by her great-grandmother it into a thrift store over 20 years ago. Broc-Art is filled with unique second-hand pieces and antiques, as well as some of her own jewelry and paintings. Once inside, don’t forget to look up where you’ll see the original ceiling paintings from 1911. Plaça del Vi, 12
Catedral de Santa Maria, Girona. Photo by Josep Bracons (CC BY-SA 2.0) via Wikimedia Commons.
Sightseeing in Girona
With a population of just over 100,000 people, Girona is often overshadowed by Barcelona. But the city has an immensely rich patrimony. Originally founded by the Iberians, it has undergone 25 sieges and been captured seven times. It has been home to the Romans, Visigoths and Moors and was one of Europe’s most important Jewish centers. Much of its history has been well preserved and you can weave your sightseeing and shopping seamlessly together as you amble around the old streets. Get a free map from the tourist office (Rambla de la Llibertat 1) to make sure you don’t miss anything.
Cathedral of Saint Mary of Girona
Located in the heart of the old town and at once looming above it (it’s a 91-step climb to the entrance), Girona’s cathedral is an imposing building. Constructed between the 11th and 18th centuries, it includes many different architectural styles, from Romanesque (the cloister and Charlemagne tower) to the Baroque façade and steps. Its 23-meter-wide Gothic nave, from the 15th century, is the widest of its kind in the world. Plaça de la Catedral, s/n
El Call
Girona’s Call is one of the city’s most emblematic areas and one of the best-preserved Jewish quarters in the world, reflecting the cultural importance of the Jewish heritage in Girona. It consists of a maze of narrow streets and courtyards that have kept their medieval atmosphere. The Jewish community flourished in Girona in the 12th century, and at its peak there were 1,000 inhabitants in the Call. Their history ended in Girona in 1492, when the Catholic Kings expelled all Jews from Catalunya. Between Carrer de la Força and Carrer de Doctor Miquel Oliva i Prat.
Museu d'Història dels Jueus
The Museum of Jewish History tells the story of the community that lived in the cramped alleys of El Call—the Jewish quarter. Pictures, artifacts and models are used to observe different aspects of the neighborhood, from community life to the synagogue, festivals and traditions. Carrer de la Força, 8
Banys Àrabs
This beautifully-preserved building from 1194 was inspired by Roman baths. It was closed down in the 15th century and became the private property of a Capuchin convent, which used it as a pantry and laundry. In 1929, it became public property and restoration work began. The most outstanding features of the Arab Baths include the entrance, which is covered with a barrel vault, and the cupola covering the central pool, which is supported by ornately-decorated columns. Carrer del Rei Ferran el Catòlic, s/n.
Fundació Rafael Masó
After the medieval streets of the Call, the brightly-painted houses that overlook the River Onyar provide a striking contrast. You can get a fabulous view of these colorful houses and the Cathedral from the Pont de Sant Feliu and the Pont d'en Gómez.
These houses have been built over the years and although the colors may seem random to the untrained eye, they do in fact follow a palette created by Catalan artist Enric Ansesa. The only house open to the public is Casa Masó, the former home of Modernista architect Rafael Masó. The house is beautifully preserved with all the family’s original furniture and art. It offers a rare glimpse into well-to-do society in 19th-century Girona. General admission is €10 and advanced booking is recommended. Carrer de les Ballesteries, 29
Published December 1, 2013, updated December 10, 2023.