Estany de Banyoles, photo by Jorge Franganillo (CC BY 2.0) via Flickr.
Home to Catalunya’s largest natural lake, Banyoles is the capital of Pla de l’Estany comarca and an interesting historical and cultural town.
To visit its most characteristic sites, follow the clearly marked Ruta del Barri Vell, beginning in Plaça Major. Dating back to 1275, the square is the site of the city market, held every Wednesday morning, and a small fruit and vegetable market on Saturdays. From here, walk down Passatge Especiatus to Carrer de Sant Pere, where Llotja del Tint, a medieval factory originally designed for dyeing fabrics made in Banyoles, is located. Today, the factory, which has maintained its original structure, serves as a municipal exhibition hall managed by artists from the Tint XXI Collective.
Continue down Carrer de la Pia Almoina, towards the recently restored city wall, until you reach Plaça de la Font and Pia Almoina. Now home to the Regional Archaeology Museum, the Gothic palace once housed a charity dedicated to distributing bread and clothes to poor local families. Next, take Carrer de les Escrivanies through Plaça del Teatre and onto Carrer del Puig, which ends at the monastery of Sant Esteve. The monastery, around which Banyoles was founded, has undergone various phases of destruction and reconstruction throughout its history.
The route then follows Carrer Nou, one of the city’s oldest streets, to Santa Maria dels Turer, the main church. Carry on walking along Carrer de la Paraireria—in the past, the primary thoroughfare of the cloth trade—to Carrer Mayor. Turn right onto Carrer del Mercadal and finish the 1.6-kilometer route at the Darder Museum. The natural history museum is one of the oldest in the region of Girona, but was completely renovated from 2003 to 2007. Of special interest is the section of the museum that explains the hydro-geological phenomenon of the Banyoles Lake basin.
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Plaça Major de Banyoles, photo by Jorge Franganillo (CC BY 2.0) via Flickr.
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Passeig Darder in Banyoles, photo by Jorge Franganillo (CC BY 2.0) via Flickr.
Besides the medieval center of Banyoles itself, the Roman town of Vilauba and the prehistoric caves in Serinyà will satisfy history buffs and adventure seekers alike.
Vilauba is a 12-minute drive from Banyoles. Uncovered in 1932, the site is believed to have been occupied prior to the ancient Iberian period; the oldest remains date back to the first century BC and continue through to the end of Visigothic rule. The settlement is divided into two distinct areas: a residential quarter to the north, and structures related to the production of wine and olive oil to the south. The site is open all year round, but advanced booking is necessary.
A 10-minute drive from Banyoles in the opposite direction, Serinyà Prehistoric Cave Park has been a refuge for three different human species over time, and demonstrates the progression from Neanderthals to modern humans. About 200,000 years ago, at the beginning of the Middle Paleolithic, the caves were inhabited by pre-Neanderthals (Homo heidelbergensis); later (between 90,000 and 39,000 years ago), Neanderthals lived there; and finally, during the Upper Paleolithic, the caves provided shelter for modern man (Homo sapiens). All three species occupied this place during the last glacial periods, when the landscape was very different from what you see today. One of the most important discoveries at the site was a 22,300-year-old skull found in 1973, which at the time was the oldest Homo sapien remains found in Catalunya.
Photo by Harold Abellan
Lake Activities
Banyoles Lake sits in a natural tectonic depression. Covering a surface area of 1.12 square kilometers and measuring 2,100 meters in length, the lake was the site of the rowing competition for the 1992 Olympic Games, and the World Rowing Championships in 2004. Nowadays, aspiring Olympians train here throughout the summer.
But you don’t have to be a hardcore rower to get out on the lake. Caiac i Natura offers kayaks for hire for €15, which includes a ticket for the facilities of the Banyoles Swimming Club. Note: As the ecosystem of the lake is susceptible to change and sensitive to increased human activity, private kayaking is prohibited.
For a more leisurely experience, Naviliera les Goges rents rowing boats by the hour for €5 per person. The company also runs the Tirona Boat, an electric catamaran that holds up to 80 people. On the 40-minute excursion aboard the Tirona Boat, your captain will explain the history and legends of the town while you sit back and marvel at the scenery. Tickets for adults are €8, children aged 4 to 8 are €6.50, and children under 4 are free.
Photo by Harold Abellan
Walking and Cycling
The location and natural surroundings of Banyoles offer a myriad of walking and cycling routes. The most popular route, whether you’re on two wheels or your own two feet, is around Banyoles Lake. An easy jaunt, the circular path (signposted as Volta a l’Estany 1) is a total of seven kilometers, and can be completed in two hours by foot or one hour by bike.
For something slightly more difficult, Ruta de Can Morgat i Puig Clarà 3 begins at the Romanesque-style church of Santa Maria de Porqueres. Skirting the lake, you’ll come to the Can Morgat ponds, where you can stop to observe the various species of birds and animals coexisting there. The path then veers into the hills, climbing 315 meters to the top of Puig Clarà. From this vantage point, you can take in impressive panoramas of the lake, the town and the sweeping plains beyond. The route is seven kilometers one-way and takes two hours.
El Pla de l’Estany Regional Council has also designed a network of cycle lanes and green routes that connect various municipalities of the region, making it easy to explore beyond Banyoles. It’s now possible to cycle from Banyoles Lake to Mata (10 minutes), to Camós (12 minutes) or to Melianta (18 minutes).
Horse Riding
The area has a tradition of equestrianism. The Fira de Sant Martirià, held in Banyoles every November, showcases horses from around the world, as well as breeds native to Catalunya. It’s a wonderful opportunity to see some impressive show jumping and dressage, and to witness the beauty and grace of the animals.
A number of riding and equestrian clubs in Banyoles lead guided tours of the surrounding area. Club Hípic Banyoles provides horses for riders of all levels and offers routes from one to two hours (€20 and €30, respectively) near the lake and into the Miànigues forest.
Photo courtesy of Vora Estany
Where to Eat
One of the most popular restaurants in the town center, Restaurant al Born serves creative market cuisine in a warm and inviting atmosphere. Using local produce whenever possible, the menu delights patrons with dishes such as lobster bunyols with curry and coconut milk, huevos estrellados with foie, sweet potato and crunchy bread, cod confit with beetroot and almond romesco sauce, and secret Ibèric (a cut of meat, which comes from between the shoulder blades and loin of the pig) with roasted red pepper chutney and vermouth.
Vora Estany boasts a prime location next to the lake. From the sunny terrace, enjoy views of the water while savoring fresh cuisine. Menu highlights include spinach cannelloni with white truffle béchamel sauce, sea bream baked with potatoes and onions and grilled churrasco with chimichurri. If you’re not looking for a big meal, Vora Estany’s bar, where athletes from the Banyoles Swimming Club tend to gather, is good for a light snack.
Published March 2018, updated December 21, 2021.