Photo by Mariona Gil courtesy of the Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).
As the Bing Crosby classic song goes, “It’s Christmas time in the city ...” but he probably wasn’t talking about the Catalan capital. While it’s possible to spot some mistletoe and a rare sprinkling of snow, here’s a handful of other traditions that you’ll more likely encounter this time of year in Barcelona.
1. Caga Tió & Caganers
If you don’t already know, the verb cagar in both Catalan and Spanish means “to poop” and it appears in all sorts of common insults and phrases: vés a cagar (“go shit”), em cago en l’hòstia (“I crap on the communion wafer”) and que t’hi cagues (“[so good] that you poop yourself”). This time of year, going number two becomes number one priority, as it’s the centerpiece of two local Christmas traditions here in Catalunya: el tió (the pooping log) and caganers (pooping figurines). (More on the caga tió and caganers)
2. Àpats Tradicionals
As if Catalan cuisine couldn’t get any better, there are two àpats tradicionals (traditional meals) that locals wait all year to celebrate with their families. On December 25, it’s typical to eat l’escudella, a stew made using carn de l’olla (meat) broth and sopa de galets (large, snail shaped pasta often filled with meat), along with roast chicken, torrons (nougats) and cava. December 26 is also a holiday in Catalunya—Sant Esteve—in which Catalans prepare canelons, large, meat-filled pasta tubes. According to some traditions, single people in the family are supposed to bear the burden of preparing them, but all they have to do is use leftovers from the night before. (Recipe for canelons.)
3. Pessebre Vivent & Els Pastorets
Literally translating to a “live nativity scene,” the pessebre vivent invites locals of all ages to participate in a representation of the Christmas story, complete with scenery, costumes and mood lighting. However, Els Pastorets takes the theatrics up a notch. Dating back to the 16th century, these traditional community productions combine a brief history of Mary and Joseph with a depiction of the battle between good and evil (angels and devils) and a comedic portrait of Catalan pastors celebrating their first Christmas.
4. Innocents & Cap d’Any
In general, folks here don’t get their big Christmas gifts until Reis (Three Kings’ Day; see below). In the meantime, however, on December 28, they celebrate El Dia dels Innocents, their version of April Fool’s Day. And to ring in the Cap d’Any (New Year), you can catch a live show at Montjuïc, during which a bell is rung 12 times leading to midnight. As you hear the bell chime, try to stuff 12 grapes in your mouth—one for each ringing—and then wash it all down with bubbly cava.
5. Cavalcada de Reis
Forget Santa Claus. Here, kids write their wishlists to the Tres Reis Mags d’Orient (Biblical Magi, Three Kings or Three Wise Men) in hopes to receive presents when they go to bed early on January 5 and wake up the next morning. The kings pass by in cavalcades (traditional parades) both in and outside Barcelona and throw sweets at kids and their families. After opening presents, it’s also common to eat the tortell de reis, a sweet bread with a king and a bean inside. (Recipe for tortell de reis.)
Originally published December 2018, updated November 15, 2021.