Updated February 15, 2020
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Arribo del Rei Carnestoltes. Photo by Pere Virgili.
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El Rei Carnestoltes i els Set Ambaixadors. Photo by Pere Virgili.
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Arribo del Rei Carnestoltes. Photo by Pere Virgili.
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Carnaval Concurs de Truites. Photo courtesy by Pere Virgili.
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Enterro de la sardina. Photo by Pere Virgili.
Carnival in Catalunya is an exuberant and colorful affair. Banned during Franco’s time, this week of hedonistic fun marking the beginning of Lent was revived with a vengeance after his death. Festivities kick off on Thursday, February 20th with l’arribo, the arrival of Rei Carnestoltes, the carnival King. A loud and cheerful advocate of all things fun and sinful, Carnestoltes leads the parades until l’enterro, his demise and burial. The funeral procession which takes place on February 26th (Ash Wednesday) is also known as “The Burial of the Sardine,” and these little fish feature heavily during the final celebrations, where residents don their best mourning clothes to honor the sombre occasion.
Carnival events are happening all throughout Catalunya this year, here are our picks of the bunch...
Barcelona
El Rei Carnestoltes. Photo Pere Virgili.
The city doesn’t go overboard for carnival, but there’s plenty going on if you know where to look. Carnestoltes arrives with a procession down Las Rambles on February 20th, and there are various big parades going on throughout the city on Saturday afternoon—the ones on Gran Rua on Parallell are the most spectacular. There are also fancy dress competitions in all the municipal markets, masked balls and other parades in each district.
Don’t miss: The concurs de truites, or the “tortilla contest.” takes place on in most neighborhoods on Thursday, February 20th. Contestants are asked to enter their most inventive, imaginatively decorated tortillas, with prizes awarded to the winners.
For more information: barcelona.cat, or check out this list of all the Carnival events going on in the city.
Sitges
Over 300,000 people flock to Sitges to enjoy a week-long extravaganza of raucous fun. Dating back over 100 years, the town’s carnival success is fruit of the rivalry between two local establishments, the Casino Prado and El Retiro, each one trying to outdo the other in flamboyant floats and costumes. The whole of Sitges is one big party this week with every bar and club packed with revelers in fancy dress and beating to the carnival rhythm.
Don’t miss: The main parades (and party nights) are the rua de la disbauxa (debauchery parade) on Sunday, February 23rd and the rua de l’extermini (extermination parade) on the following Tuesday night. Be prepared for standing room only on the train from Barcelona.
For more information: carnavalsitges.com
Getting there: Trains leave approximately every 15 minutes from Sants and Passeig de Gràcia. On peak days (February 23, 24 and 26) Renfe will increase services between Sitges and Barcleona The journey takes 35 minutes. renfe.es
Mon-bus intercity service with operate ever 30 minutes throughout the night, which will be from 23:20 to 5:30. monbus.cat
Platja d'Aro (Girona)
The best-known carnival celebration on the Costa Brava, Platja d’Aro pulls out all the stops with glitzy processions that attract over half a million visitors. For over a week the town fills with costumes and music as well as lots of family-friendly activities for visitors to join in, such as the arrossada general and the xocolatada general. The huge Saturday parade has seemingly endless floats, with dancers and marching bands from all over Europe.
Don’t miss: Food is big part of Girona’s festivities, and local neighborhood feasts take place throughout the week. Make sure you try the traditional egg botifarra on February 20th, the final Thursday before lent known as Dijou Gras (“Fat Thursday” in English).
For more information: platjadaro.com
Getting there: Sarfa buses leave approximately every two hours from Estaciò del Nord. The journey takes about an hour and a half. sarfa.com
Solsona (Lleida)
In 1971, after 35 years of absence, the residents of Solsona decided it was time to defy Franco and revive their carnival. The event was a big success and has continued ever since. It is one of the longest celebrations in Catalunya, with over a week of street events and concerts. Since 1978 the carnival has included “crazy giants,” a twist on the traditional gegants, as they pursue revelers with their articulated arms and legs.
Don’t miss: According to legend, a donkey was hung at the tower bell because it wanted to eat some grass that grew on the top of the tower. During carnival a stuffed donkey is hung on the top of the tower and on the Saturday night it pees on the crowds below by way of a water pump. Locals are called matarrucs (donkey killers).
For more information: carnavalsolsona.com
Getting there: Alsa runs one bus a day from Estaciò del Nord. The journey takes about two and a half hours. alsa.es
Tarragona
Local crafts, traditional food and political satire are the flavor of the Tarragona carnival. Events start with the building of a huge barrel and a sermon from Carnestoltes in which he invokes freedom and criticizes a cast of local people. Effigies of the Carnival King and Queen are then placed in the barrel, which is set on fire. Carnival ends with the procession of the dying King in which one Doctor Mistela tries to revive the moribund Carnestoltes with alcohol. The Saturday and Sunday parades are a visual and auditory extravaganza of music and percussion bands, devils and a fire-breathing dragon, masked groups, dancers and animal figures.
Don’t miss: The folkloric characters and spectacular artisanal costumes that make this carnival special.
For more information: tarragonaturisme.cat
Getting there: Trains leave regularly from Sants and take between 30 minutes (on the AVE high-speed train) and an hour and a half for regional trains. renfe.es
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Just beyond Sitges, Vilanova celebrates a rival carnival with a plethora of local traditions. In 1985 this carnival was declared a fiesta of national interest. As in Sitges, the xató (a type of salad, made with endive, cod, olives and anchovies) is the traditional food. The comparses make sure everyone is joining in the fun and on the Sunday enjoy a good humored boiled sweet fight in the streets. On the Saturday before carnival weekend, the Ball de Mantons (the Shawl Dance) takes place—bars and restaurants put on live music and everyone is invited to don a shawl and dance the night away. The party ends on Wednesday with the traditional burying of a sardine to signify the beginning of lent.
Don’t miss: the merengada on Thursday. After a traditional meal of xató at home, locals take to the streets for a chaotic meringue fight. Wear old clothes.
For more information: carnavaldevilanova.cat
Getting there: Trains leave approximately every 15 minutes from Sants and Passeig de Gràcia. The journey takes 40 minutes. renfe.es