Updated February 12, 2022.
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L'arribo de Carnaval in Barcelona, photo by Marc Grifo courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)
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L'arribo de Carnaval in Barcelona, photo by Vicente Zambrano González courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)
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L'arribo de Caranval in Barcelona, photo by Vicente Zambrano González courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).
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Ball del rei Carnestoltes i la reina Belluga, photo by Marc Grifo courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)
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Dansa de les titelles i dels ballarins, photo by Marc Grifo courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).
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Children at "l'enterrament de la sardina," photo by Vicente Zambrano González courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).
This year Carnival arrives in Barcelona on February 24 and will end on March 2.
Carnival in Catalunya is an exuberant and colorful affair. Banned during Franco’s time, this week of hedonistic fun marking the beginning of Lent was revived with a vengeance after his death. Every year, festivities kick off on Dijous Gras (Fat Thursday) with l’arribo, the arrival of Rei Carnestoltes, the carnival King. A loud and cheerful advocate of all things fun and sinful, Carnestoltes leads the parades until l’enterro, his demise and burial. The funeral procession which takes place on Dimecres de Cendra (Ash Wednesday) is also known as “The Burial of the Sardine,” and these little fish feature heavily during the final celebrations, where residents don their best mourning clothes to honor the sombre occasion.
Carnival events are happening all throughout Catalunya this year, here are our picks of the bunch:
Barcelona
El Rei Carnestoltes. Photo Pere Virgili.
The city doesn’t go overboard for carnival, but there’s plenty going on if you know where to look. Carnestoltes arrives on Dijous Gras with a procession down Las Rambles on February 24th, and there are various parades going on throughout the city on Saturday afternoon—the ones on Gran Rua on Parallell are the most spectacular. There are also fancy dress competitions in the municipal markets, masked balls and other parades in each district.
Don’t Miss:
The concurs de truites, or the “tortilla contest” which takes place in most neighborhoods on Thursday, February 24th. Contestants are asked to enter their most inventive, imaginatively decorated tortillas, with prizes awarded to the winners.
Celebrations come to a close with the l’enterrament de la sardina (the burial of the sardine) on March 2nd, with various neighborhoods hosting ceremonies. While each has its unique elements, celebrations usually feature a funeral entourage where participants are encouraged to dress in mourning. The procession culminates in a symbolic burial (of sardines) or a funeral pyre for the Carnival King, often ending with a feast featuring—you guessed it—sardines.
For more information on the Carnival events going on in the city: barcelona.cat.
Gay pride parade,Sitges. Photo by Ybridex AngeloDemon (CC BY NC ND 2.0)
Sitges
Over 300,000 people flock to Sitges to enjoy a week-long extravaganza of raucous fun. Dating back over 100 years, the town’s carnival success is fruit of the rivalry between two local establishments, the Casino Prado and El Retiro, each one trying to outdo the other in flamboyant floats and costumes. The whole of Sitges is one big party this week with every bar and club packed with revelers in fancy dress and beating to the carnival rhythm.
Don’t Miss:
The main parades (and party nights) are the rua de la disbauxa (debauchery parade) on Sunday, February 27th and the rua de l’extermini (extermination parade) on the following Tuesday. Be prepared for standing room only on the train from Barcelona.
For more information: visitsitges.com
Getting there: Trains leave approximately every 15 minutes from Sants and Passeig de Gràcia. On peak days Renfe will increase services between Sitges and Barcleona The journey takes 35-40 minutes. renfe.es
Mon-bus intercity service which operates every 30 minutes throughout the night from 23:20 to 5:30. monbus.cat
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval in Vilanova i la Geltrú, photo by Ajuntament de Vilanova i la Geltrú (CC BY-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
Vilanova i la Geltrú
Just beyond Sitges, Vilanova celebrates a rival carnival with a plethora of local traditions. In 1985 this carnival was declared a fiesta of national interest. On the Saturday before carnival weekend, the Ball de Mantons (the Shawl Dance) opens the festivities—bars and restaurants put on live music and everyone is invited to don a shawl and dance the night away. As in Sitges, the xató (a type of salad, made with endive, cod, olives and anchovies) is the traditional food on Dijous Gras followed by wild celebrations in the streets. Friday sees the arrival of the Carnival King accompanied by his entourage as he parades through the streets, followed by the Ball de l’Arrivo for those who want to celebrate until the wee hours of the morning. On Saturday the Ball de Malcasats sees costumed characters with paper mâché masks offering satirical performances in a type of primitive street theater.
The festivities on Sunday begin early, the whole town is bedecked in brilliant colors and music fills the air as musicians parade through the streets. After an awards ceremony the comparses begins where everyone joins in on the fun in a good humored sweets fight in the Plaça de la Vila. The party ends on Wednesday with the Carnival King's funeral procession and the traditional burying of a sardine to signify the beginning of Lent.
Don’t Miss:
The merengada on Thursday. After a traditional meal of xató at home, locals take to the streets for a chaotic meringue fight. Wear old clothes and be prepared to get covered head to toe!
For more information: carnavaldevilanova.cat
Getting there: Trains leave approximately every 15 minutes from Sants and Passeig de Gràcia. The journey takes 40 minutes. renfe.es
Tarragona
Local crafts, traditional food and political satire are the flavor of the Tarragona carnival. Events start with the building of a huge barrel and a sermon from Carnestoltes in which he invokes freedom and criticizes a cast of local people. Effigies of the Carnival King and Queen are then placed in the barrel, which is set on fire. Carnival ends with the procession of the dying King in which one Doctor Mistela tries to revive the moribund Carnestoltes with alcohol. The Saturday and Sunday parades are a visual and auditory extravaganza of music and percussion bands, devils and a fire-breathing dragon, masked groups, dancers and animal figures.
Don’t Miss:
The folkloric characters and spectacular artisanal costumes that make this carnival special.
For more information: tarragonaturisme.cat
Getting there: Trains leave regularly from Sants and take between 30 minutes (on the AVE high-speed train) and an hour and a half for regional trains. renfe.es
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Carnaval parade in Solsona photo by Ramon Oromí (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval parade in Solsona photo by Ramon Oromí (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval parade in Solsona photo by Ramon Oromí (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval parade in Solsona photo by Ramon Oromí (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
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Carnaval parade in Solsona photo by Ramon Oromí (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0) via Flickr.
Solsona (Lleida)
In 1971, after 35 years of absence, the residents of Solsona decided it was time to defy Franco and revive their carnival. The event was a big success and has continued ever since. It is one of the longest celebrations in Catalunya, with over a week of street events and concerts. Since 1978 the carnival has included “crazy giants,” a twist on the traditional gegants, as they pursue revelers with their articulated arms and legs.
Don’t Miss:
According to legend, a donkey was hung at the tower bell because it wanted to eat some grass that grew on the top of the tower. During carnival a stuffed donkey is hung on the top of the tower and on the Saturday night it pees on the crowds below by way of a water pump. Locals are called matarrucs (donkey killers).
For more information: carnavalsolsona.com
Getting there: Alsa runs one bus a day from Estaciò del Nord. The journey takes about two and a half hours. alsa.es
Platja d'Aro (Girona)
The best-known carnival celebration on the Costa Brava, Platja d’Aro pulls out all the stops with glitzy processions that attract over half a million visitors. For over a week the town fills with costumes and music as well as lots of family-friendly activities for visitors to join in, such as the arrossada general and the xocolatada general. The huge Saturday parade has seemingly endless floats, with dancers and marching bands from all over Europe.
Don’t Miss:
Food is big part of Girona’s festivities, and local neighborhood feasts take place throughout the week. Make sure you try the traditional egg botifarra on February 24th, the final Thursday before lent known as Dijou Gras (“Fat Thursday” in English).
For more information: platjadaro.com
Getting there: Sarfa buses leave approximately every two hours from Estaciò del Nord. The journey takes about an hour and a half. sarfa.com
Originally published February 2014, updated February 12, 2022.