El ball de bastons—La Mercè 2023

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A ball de bastons in celebration of La Mercè, photo by Ariana Nalda courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).

The stick dance is an ancient and traditional dance, widespread across many European countries and deeply rooted in Catalunya since the 12th century. It might be, perhaps, a remnant of a ritualistic countryside dance or a warrior dance where swords have been replaced with sticks. In Barcelona, where stick-dancing activity is vibrant, a dozen festival groups take part in el ball de bastons (stick-dance morning) of La Mercè. It starts with a display in Plaça de Sant Jaume and continues with a street parade to the sound of the flabiol (a type of flute), the gralles (traditional Catalan woodwind instruments), the accordion, the violin and the beats of the sticks.

In some cases, the dances narrate through movement the struggle between two factions, distinguished by the colors of their short overskirts and handkerchiefs, and it can be considered the most widespread dance throughout Catalan territory. While originally performed only by men, from the 1960s on, women were integrated into the dance and have since participated on equal footing. The route leading the festival groups through the Gothic Quarter concludes an event organized by the Balls de Bastons de Catalunya Coordination Committee, which promotes cultural, folk and traditional stick-dancing events to spread Catalan popular culture.

The route begins at Plaça de Sant Jaume and follows along Carrer de Ferran, La Rambla, Carrer del Cardenal Casañas, Plaça del Pi, Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol, Carrer de la Palla, Carrer dels Banys Nous, Baixada de Santa Eulàlia, Carrer de Sant Sever, Carrer de Sant Felip Neri, Plaza de San Felipe Neri, Carrer de Montjuïc del Bisbe, Carrer del Bisbe returning to Plaça de Sant Jaume.

Celebrated September 22-25, 2023, the La Mercè festival program is packed with things to do and see. But if all the festivities of La Mercè get to be a bit too much, why not take a culture break?

Many of the city’s museums observe the holiday with a jornada de portes obertes (open doors). Check out our interactive map with all the locations that are throwing open their doors for free: Map of Barcelona Museums with Free Entry for La Mercè.

For other ideas about how to celebrate La Mercè go to What to Do for La Mercè.