Sweet Surprises: Santa Coloma de Farners
Driving from Barcelona’s every-man-for-himself traffic into the drowsy La Selva region of the Catalan countryside is always a marvelous experience. And for a nearby escape from the Barcelona bustle, La Selva’s capital, Santa Coloma de Farners, offers relaxation, hiking, spas, history and some sweet surprises.
Situated between leafy-green natural parks and swells of forested mountains, Santa Coloma is built over an abundance of natural springs. Just at the edge of town, Sant Salvador Park is a great place to go for a drink of the plentiful spring water. Streaked with dallying streams and an occasional picnic table, the park is a pleasant place to have lunch after downing a few glasses of ice-cold water. People from neighboring towns, and even from Barcelona, come to the park loaded with large plastic water jugs, which they fill at the park’s aquifer. The water shoots out of a mammoth rock ready to drink: delicious and completely free of charge.
Thermal Waters
A couple of kilometers before Sant Salvador, a dirt road leads to a one-lane bridge, followed by lines of sculpted trees, gushy fountains and the tip of a white roof that peaks out from behind it all. The majestic Termes Orion balneari (spa) seems to gleam against its verdant backdrop, the Guilleries mountains. This old spa sits on top of medicinal thermal springs with mineral rich waters, believed to increase circulation and aid relaxation. Constructed in 1860, Orion’s classical structure holds court over plentiful gardens and freshly mown laws; its tall sculpted columns and wrap-around porch accentuate its comfort and peacefulness.
The spa’s healing waters were discovered around 1700 by farmers harvesting cànem (hemp) in the area. The spa was constructed 160 years later; the therapy system worked by cooling the 42-degree hot spring water and then piping this into individual pools for ailing guests, most of whom came from Barcelona. With such a long history, Orion has seen its good years and bad. From 1936 to 1939, Termes Orion was taken over by the Republic during the Civil War, and used as a hospital for wounded soldiers. It is said that soldiers with amputated limbs were immersed in the thermal pools, which aided in a speedier recovery.
When Domingo Campeny bought Termes Orion for sentimental reasons in 1978, the historic spa had been closed and in ruins for years. As a boy, Campeny had played in the vast gardens surrounding Orion, as his father was the groundskeeper. After Campeny purchased the spa, he made it his goal to restore the building and improve the springs. He re-vamped the extensive grounds and created a bamboo-lined thermal pool surrounded by walls of windows to replace the old, outdated soaking baths of the 1800s. Though historically the balneari focused only on thermal spring water treatments, a new age demand for stress release has prompted Termes Orion to add massage, pedicures, facials and specialty bathing, ranging from hydrating milk soaks to antioxidant purple grape baths.
Not even a kilometer from Termes Orion is another spa with a new building and a family focus. Magma Spa resembles a low-key water park, with multiple indoor and outdoor pools, fountains, jets and a designated pool for kids. Both spas use the same thermal spring source, but Magma’s pools are treated while Orion’s one small pool is not. They can both be easily visited on a day-trip.
Mountain Trails
Too much spa time and thermal soaking and one’s skin begins to resemble a prune; that’s when it’s time to get out of the pool and head to Santa Coloma’s mountains to visit Farner’s Castle (12th century) and the Mare de Déu de Farners monastery (11th century). It’s a short drive from the center of town up a dusty road that bids one to keep the car in first gear and just take it easy. Visitors arrive first at the monastery in a quiet wooded area. Mare de Déu de Farners is not very well-known, so visitors may find themselves completely alone and free to explore the monastery and the surrounding area.
From Mare de Déu de Farners, follow the footpath up a stone staircase to the castle, and stop to admire the carved cork trees scattered through the forest. Inside the castle are iron stairs that curl up and around the tower; although they can be a difficult climb, it’s worth it as they lead to views of indigo mountains, neighboring monasteries, and of course Santa Coloma in the distance. For the more ambitious visitor, Farners castle also marks the beginning of a 62 kilometer, three-day hike that leads to 10 monasteries between the towns of L’Esparra and Anglès, as well as the castles and masies of Les Guilleries.
Catalan Cookies
After seeing the outer reaches of Santa Coloma, it’s time to check out its sweeter side. Trias galetes (biscuits) is one of the town’s biggest industries and an important part of its history. Around 1900, entrepreneur Joaquim Trias and his brother had a business making biscuits from almonds, sugar and water. They were modeled after the no-spoil version of the English biscuit and were a hit. Sadly, the brothers had a falling out and decided to part ways, but both stayed in the biscuit business. Today, four generations later, there are three biscuit companies in Santa Coloma de Farners, all of which have Trias family origins.
Undoubtedly, the descendants of Joaquim Trias have been the most successful in marketing their biscuits and exporting new flavors all over the globe. Today, Maria Trias represents the company her great-great grandfather began. “These days, we are focusing on international exportation and new biscuit recipes,” said Trias, who speaks perfect English.
She listed the US, Japan, Taiwan, Central America, the UK, Germany and France as countries currently offering their biscuits. The Trias trademark is also well-known around Barcelona. Their biscuits are sold in a sturdy tin box with a picture of an elderly couple relishing a pile of almond biscuits. In the Trias factory, the scent of biscuits baking in bulk fills the air, tempting visitors to the on-site biscuit museum. Through a large window it’s possible to watch biscuit-makers at work, before heading down to the gift shop to indulge in the fruits of their labor.
After a day or so in Santa Coloma de Farners, it’s normal to leave feeling recharged and rested. For such a small town, Santa Coloma hosts many possibilities for repose. It is also advantageously located in the middle of the La Selva region, making it easy to visit interesting destinations in the area. Just a short journey up the motorway from Barcelona, Santa Coloma makes an excellent base for a couple of days’ soaking, hiking and remembering just how delicious tranquility can be.
Festivals and Fairs
Weekly Market
On Saturdays in Plaça del Firal, and on Sundays in Plaça Farners the outdoor market features stalls with locally grown fruits and vegetables, embotits (sausages) and other artisanal goods alongside clothes, shoes and household goods
January, Festa del Pelegrí
Every year on January 20th, hundreds of walkers accompany pare pelegrí (Father Pilgrim) from Tossa de Mar to Santa Coloma de Farners. According to tradition, observance of this 40 kilometer pilgrimage has kept the plague away since the 15th century. Starting in Tossa de Mar, it goes to the closest church dedicated to Sant Sebastià, which is at the entrance of Santa Coloma de Farners.
The pilgrims bring with them shells to give to the townspeople of Santa Coloma, who wait patiently for them with lighted candles. On the morning of the next day, the pilgrims make the journey back to Tossa. There the villagers receive them with a chilling sepulchral silence, and then it is announced that the pilgrimage has been successfully observed for another year. The day ends with a hearty meal of snails, coca de Sant Sebastià and other sticky sweets that can only be bought on this day.
April, Sardana Aplec
On the last Sunday of April, Santa Coloma celebrates the famous Catalan sardana dance in the magnificent Sant Salvador Park, a place where many locals walk and relax, and where many walking, cycling and mountain biking trails start. On this day, sardana dancers and fans come together listen to the cobla bands playing, to dance and to celebrate this longstanding cultural tradition.
May, Ratafia Herb Market
In May an herb market takes place in Plaça Farners filling the square with market stands packed with every herb you can imagine. The festival agenda is filled with concerts, workshops, activities and herb-collecting excursions. If you aren't familiar with this sweet liqueur, check out our article Ratafia: Catalunya's Sweet Herbal Liqueur.
July, Fira del pa amb tomàquet
On the first Sunday in July, Santa Coloma de Farners devotes an entire day to one of the most typical delicacies in Catalunya: bread with tomato. All day long Sant Salvador Park is packed with communal tables and numerous stalls where you can find everything you need to enjoy a good meal: from the best local bread to oils and tomatoes, as well as artisan sausage, grilled meat and other delicacies to fill your plate. Once you've had your fill you can enjoy talks, concerts and for children there are activities, pony rides and inflatable attractions.
November, Ratafia Festival
Held on the second weekend in November, the Ratafia Festival celebrates the long tradition of home-made ratafia. For four days the town celebrates with live music, talks, cooking workshops, guided tours, traditional dances, a correfoc, children's activities, ratafia tastings, a ratafiàrium featuring products made with ratafia, a ratafia contest and, of course, a market where you can stock up on ratafia and other local artisanal goods.
More Info
Ajuntament de Santa Coloma de Farners, Plaça del Primer d'Octubre, 1, 17430 Santa Coloma de Farners | scf.cat
Museu de les Galetes Trias, Carretera de Sils 36, 17430 Santa Coloma de Farners | triasbiscuits.com
Hotel Balneario Termes Orion, Veïnat de Vall, s/n, 17430 Santa Coloma de Farners | termesorion.cat
Magma Spa, Veïnat de Vall, s/n, 17430 Santa Coloma de Farners | magma-cat.com
Getting There
By public transport: It's just over an hour on a Renfe Media Distancia train from Barcelona Sants to Sils, which is about eight kilometers from Santa Coloma. From there it's about 10 minutes by taxi, or it's just two stops on the Teisa bus service on the Amer-Santa Coloma de Farners-Sils line.
By car: The 80 kilometer ride takes about an hour by car via the AP-7 motorway.
Published January 1, 2008, updated October 30, 2023.