White Out: Skiing in Catalunya
On the subject of Spanish holidays, many "s" words spring to mind: sun, sea, sand and sangria. Snow, however, is not typically at the top of the list. Yet, as the evenings get darker and temperatures plummet, acres of luscious natural parks in the Pyrenees convert into a powdery wonderland, attracting thousands of avid skiers each year. Perhaps one of Catalunya’s best kept secrets is its many competitively-priced ski resorts, some just a couple hours’ drive from our Mediterranean metropolis.
Baqueira Beret, Lleida Province
With 146 kilometers of long, wide ski runs across three main areas (Baqueira Beret and Bonaigua), Baqueira Beret is Spain’s largest and most popular ski resort, often dubbed the Spanish equivalent of the Les Trois Vallées in the French Alps, minus the inflated prices and slow queues. Located in the highest part of the Aran Valley, the resort’s position within the Pyrenees and its Atlantic-facing westerly aspect ensure good snow coverage throughout the season. Though the 1960s resort towns may leave a little to be desired in terms of architectural charm, the five extensive national parks that surround the area more than compensate with their striking beauty. Beginners will find plenty of easy-cruising terrain, with the largest concentration of green slopes around the Pla de Beret area, while intermediate-advanced skiers have a choice of 37 red slopes and 15 black slopes. For those looking for something more challenging, there are five ungroomed runs, including the pulse-raising Escornacabres (meaning "where goats tumble"), as well as 2,000 hectares of accessible off-piste and Europe’s cheapest heli-skiing.
Where to Stay
Hotel Montarto is ideally located at the foot of the Baqueira Beret ski station. It is a good option for families, with several quadruple rooms, a swimming pool and in-house children’s entertainment to keep the little ones occupied in the evenings. It also boasts a gym and spa facilities, tennis courts, a piano bar and two restaurants, serving what is considered to be one of the best breakfasts in the Pyrenees.
Where to Eat
The cobbled streets of nearby ancient villages Arties, Gessa and Vielha are teeming with traditional tapas bars serving authentic Catalan cuisine, including Restaurant Can Pere in Vielha and Casa Rufus in Gessa.
How to Get There
By car: Located in the north-westernmost corner of Catalunya, the Baqueira Beret resort is the farthest from Barcelona. There are no mass transport options available, so you'll need to drive the 290 kilometers up from Barcelona; the trip takes about four and a half hours.
Boí Taüll, Lleida Province
The Boí Taüll resort is a narrow valley surrounded by the soaring peaks of Catalunya’s Aigüestortes and Lake Sant Maurici National Park. With lifts taking skiers up to 2,751 meters above sea level, this is the highest ski resort in the Spanish Pyrenees. With mainly red and black runs, the resort appeals to intermediate and advanced level skiers—think wide pistes with plenty of untouched powder—although at lower altitudes there is a small selection of quiet greens and blues. For freestyle lovers, there is a large and varied snow park catering to all abilities, with areas for those learning to jump, as well as boxes and rails for the seasoned adrenaline seekers.
Where to Stay
Vall de Boí is dotted with many picturesque villages, best known for their Romanesque churches, which date back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Stay at Hostal La Plaça in the nearby town of Erill la Vall, a small and reasonably priced hotel and restaurant renowned for its family feel and personalized service.
Where to Eat
La Granja in Erill la Vall serves traditional Catalan cuisine enhanced by the chef’s unique twist. The restaurant’s beautiful setting beneath the church of Santa Eulàlia and its friendly and attentive staff make it great for a warming evening meal.
How to Get There
By bus: While nearly as far from Barcelona as Baqueira Beret, there is a bus service that will get you to the nearby town of El Pont de Suert. Alsa makes the trip from Estació Nord in around four hours.
By car: The 270-kilometer trip takes about four hours by car from the center of Barcelona.
Alp 2500, Girona Province
Alp 2500 is the combination of La Masella and La Molina, two well-linked resorts each with its own unique history and character. Stretching across the Serra del Cadí mountain range, the 141 kilometers of mostly north-eastern facing pistes give panoramic views of the vast Cerdanya Valley. It was within the thick pine forests of La Molina that skiing was first practiced in Spain, when the resort opened in 1943. The region now comprises 46 pistes, 58 percent of which are blues and greens that run right from the top, making for a more varied and interesting introductory experience. La Masella has a similar quantity of beginner slopes, but also 17 black slopes, as well as Parc Neu de la Pleta—a large snow park full of challenging jumps, boxes and rails.
Where to Stay
The relative proximity of Alp 2500 to Barcelona makes it a feasible day trip destination. For those looking for a longer trip, however, Hotel Jaume in the nearby town of Alp is a family-run hotel with a warm, friendly atmosphere just a short drive from the resort.
Where to Eat
The nearby town of Puigcerdà has many great places to eat, including Tap de Suro, a cozy restaurant that specializes in seasonal tapas expertly paired with good wines. For local cuisine in a spectacular setting, Mooma at Cerdanya’s aerodrome offers exquisite dishes against a beautiful backdrop.
How to Get There
By train: Take the R3 train from Plaça de Catalunya to La Molina (three hours 30 minutes). A combined return train ticket and one-day ski pass can be bought at any Rodalies de Catalunya train station and costs €49.50.
By bus: Sagalés offers a combined SkiBus ticket from Barcelona, Sabadell, Terrassa or Manresa to La Molina with a day pass for €65.
By car: The 160-kilometer journey takes approximately two hours, depending on traffic and includes toll roads.
Vall de Núria, Girona Province
This remote, wide-stretching valley is hidden among peaks of almost 3,000 meters within the Eastern Pyrenees. Legend says that in the eighth century, Saint Giles lived in the valley and crafted an image of the Virgin Mary that he was forced to hide before fleeing from Roman persecution. Centuries later, a pilgrim discovered the image and Vall de Núria became a popular pilgrimage site. Today, however, it tends to be tourists rather than pilgrims that flock to the mountain retreat. In summer, it’s a haven of luscious plants and emerald pastures, while by winter snow blankets the valley, creating a small, intimate ski resort with 11 slopes and two ski schools—ideal for beginners and young families. Though fairly limited in terms of restaurants and accommodation, Vall de Núria is well connected to Barcelona by rail, and can be considered for a day trip.
How to Get There
By train: Take the R3 from Plaça de Catalunya to Ribes de Freser. From there, take the cremallera (rack railway) up to the valley.
By car: The 120 kilometers to Ribes de Freser takes about an hour and 45 minutes. Vehicles are not permitted in the valley, so park here and catch the rack railway up the mountain.
Off Piste
When the ski boots start to pinch, take a break from the slopes to explore what else the Pyrenees have to offer.
Adventure
Parc Aventura, La Molina Traverse the treetops at this adventure park, complete with zip lines, nets, Tibetan bridges, Tarzan swings and many more games for the whole family in the tree tops.
Hot Air Balloon, La Molina From the Aeródromo of La Cerdanya take an unforgettable balloon flight over the valley to enjoy the sunrise as you float above the Catalan Pyrenees.
Parc Lúdic, Vall de Núria A family-friendly park with sleigh tracks, tubing, snow skating, a climbing zone and zip line.
Ice Diving, Vall de Núria Aimed at certified divers over 18, ice diving offers a new challenge in a unique underwater landscape.
Walk
Nordic walking, La Molina Experience the mountains by foot.
Moonlit Snowshoeing, Vall de Núria Enjoy the natural landscape during the quieter hours.
Learn
Musèu Dera Val d’Aran, Baqueira Beret Head to the village of Vielha for a trip through the history of the valley, from prehistoric times to the present day.
Cerdà Museum, La Molina In the nearby town of Puigcerdà discover what life was like in a rural farmhouse from the 19th century.
Relax
La Pleta Hotel and Spa, Baqueira Beret Rest mind, body and soul at the hotel’s luxury spa.
Baths of Caldes de Boí, Vall de Boí Indulge in the healing and relaxing powers of 37 natural mineral water springs.
Hotel Guitart Spa, La Molina Enjoy quiet moments to unwind with treatments that offer physical and mental cleansing.
Published January 2018, updated November 26, 2023.