Regions of Catalunya: Ripollès

Nestled in the Ribes and Camprodon river valleys in the northwest corner of Girona Province, Ripollès is a mountainous comarca (county) that's an ideal area to visit for those who enjoy outdoor activities; the landscape is spectacular, with snow-capped peaks and green valleys. The natural beauty of Ripollès is enhanced by the many Romanesque churches and castles that dot the region. These architectural gems were largely constructed between the 10th and 12th centuries during a period of local prosperity, which in turn sprang from the fact that the descriptively named Count of Barcelona, Wilfred the Hairy, made this area the heart of his efforts to increase the Catalan population in the ninth century. The three main Romanesque buildings are the monasteries of Santa Maria in Ripoll (the comarca’s capital), Sant Joan de les Abadesses and Sant Pere in the town of Camprodon, but there are many smaller examples to be explored. Ripollès is also characterized by its industrial history, as well as its landscape and role in the development of Catalunya. Iron and coal mining have been carried out here for centuries, as well as papermaking, textile manufacturing and metalwork.

Romanesque Riches

Monestir de Santa Maria de Ripoll

The largest town in Ripollès is Ripoll, a primarily industrial town, with significant local landmarks. The Romanesque monastery of Santa Maria dates from the year 879, when it was founded by Wilfred the Hairy. For two centuries, it was an important European center for the production and copying of manuscripts, and it became particularly famed for two miniature Bibles produced there. The Scriptorium is a short walk from Santa Maria and offers an interactive exhibition allowing visitors to try out the art of writing as it was done 1,000 years ago. Back at the monastery, the key features include a 12th-century portal, known as the "Stone Bible," the tomb of Wilfred the Hairy, and the cloister, parts of which are over 800 years old. Another attraction in the town is the Farga Palau (Forge Palace) which celebrates the Catalan forge used in the development of iron-working in the 17th and 18th centuries, with items such as nails, firearms and railings being made there.

Sant Pere de Camprodon

In the east of Ripollès is Camprodon, a small town, but it also has a Romanesque church worth visiting: Sant Pere, which dates from the 10th century. There are also other features that make a trip there interesting. As the point where the Ter and Ritort rivers meet, water is important locally and there are 15 fountains scattered throughout the village, many of which are over a century old. There is also, unsurprisingly, an important bridge, the Pont Nou (New Bridge), built in the 14th century. Finally, the Passeig Maristany was redesigned in the Twenties as a result of Camprodon’s popularity as a holiday venue amongst some of the elite of the time. It was made to be like Barcelona’s elegant Passeig de Gràcia: an attractive, tree-lined boulevard to stroll along.

Sant Joan de les Abadesses

Another important Romanesque monastery is that in Sant Joan de les Abadesses, a ninth century nunnery (although the nuns were expelled in the 11th century for inappropriate behavior) with the same name as the town itself. Sant Joan also has an old neighborhood dating from the 13th century, whose style is based on classic Roman and Greek architecture. As well as these three well-known Romanesque buildings, there are almost 100 others to visit in Ripollès. They include the Church of Sant Esteve in Llanars, two kilometers from Camprodon, and the four-story bell tower of Santa Cecilia’s Church in Molló.

Mountain Sports

The whole of the Ripollès county is bursting with things to do, thanks to its spectacular countryside. There are two resorts in the area: Vallter 2000 and Vall de Núria. Both offer skiing and other winter sport opportunities like snowshoeing, ice climbing and ski mountaineering. There is a great range of spring and summer outdoor activities available as well, including climbing, hiking and cycling, and Vall de Núria also offers horse riding, archery and a children’s park.

Quite apart from the beauty of its setting, a distinguishing feature of the Vall de Núria is that the only way to get there is on foot or by the cremallera (cog or rack train). Such railways were created to enable trains to climb steep hills; Catalunya’s only other such train is at Montserrat. The route is 12 kilometers long and climbs a total of 1,000 meters, providing a fantastic way to see the local countryside, especially the Gorges de Núria, through which the River Núria flows. Take the rack train from either Ribes de Freser (Ribes-Enllaç station, which connects with the RENFE train service) or Queralbs, a bit further up the mountain. Once in the valley itself, the view is dominated by the Sanctuary of the Virgin of Núria, which is part-shrine, part-accommodation for visitors. The history of Núria is long and varied—Palaeolithic and Megalithic remains have been found in nearby caves. Legend has it that the shrine to the Virgin came into being after an ox miraculously found, in 1079, a wooden image of the mother of God carved by Sant Gil who lived in the area in the eighth century. Although the image has now been identified as being in the Romanesque style of the 1100s, the religious spirit in Núria remains strong.

Experienced walkers may like to get off the Vall de Núria cog train at Queralbs and do the three-hour hike up through the Gorges de Núria. The Puigmal peak is another ideal objective for those who like mountain-walking—from Núria, it takes about three hours. If planning a mountain hike, extend the experience with an overnight stay in a refugi (mountain refuge). Information on these, as well as hiking routes, is available from the FEEC, a Catalan mountain sports organization.

For cyclists, a network of vies verdes connects many villages in the area via old train lines that have been converted to greenways. One of the Ripollès vies verdes is the 12-kilometre Ruta del Ferro i del Carbó (the Iron and Coal Route) running between Ripoll and Ogassa. Walkers can also use these routes to explore the region.

Local Festivals

Every May, Ripoll celebrates the Festa Nacional de la Llana i Casament a Pagès (Festival of Wool and Country Marriages)—this combines displays of sheep-shearing and wool-spinning, with the recreation of a typical rural wedding with traditional costumes, dancing and food. A week before, in Vallfogona de Ripollès, there is a celebration of the Roser dance, an annual event dating back to the 17th century. Springtime is also ideal for hill and mountain-walking, the time to take advantage of the fine weather, before it gets too hot.

In September, Ripoll hosts the European Cheese Fair, which brings together cheese producers from the region and from across the continent. In addition to cheeses, you can also find other local artisanal products, such as wines and beers.

What to Eat

Gastronomes will be delighted with a trip to this area, which is famed for its embotits, game animals including senglar (wild boar), ratafia (a sweet, herb-infused liquor), honey, cheeses and other dairy products, the trumfa potatoes from the Camprodon valley and locally-reared meat—especially xai (lamb). Certain towns produce special biscuits such as the Birba brand from Camprodon and the almond and sugar-encrusted coca de Ripollès is a regional favorite.

Where to Stay

The Hotel Camprodon is an inexpensive option with a Twenties' style elegance. Alternatively, many of the smaller towns and villages have at least one simple pensió, perfect for a tranquil break. For an even more isolated stay, there is the Sanctuary at Núria, with hotel rooms and apartments available, as well as a small campsite.

More Info

Ripollès Toursime: ripollesturisme.com

Vall de Núria: valldenuria.com

Vallter 2000: vallter2000.com

FEEC (Federació d'Entitats Excursionistes de Catalunya): feec.cat

Vies Verdes: viesverdes.org

Hotel Camprodon: hotelcamprodon.com

Published April 2007, updated August 19, 2023.