Regions of Catalunya: La Conca de Barberà

Head inland from the golden coast of Tarragona, towards the ancient city of Lleida, and you’ll find yourself in the rustic comarca (county) of La Conca de Barberà. Surrounded by mountain ranges, the erosive action of the rivers that cut through its terrain for millennia carved a deep valley, leaving behind calcareous soils and gravely river terraces. In Catalan, a conca refers to a river’s drainage basin, so it’s aptly named.

Though poor in organic material, its land is well suited for grape vines, which cover its plains. Dating back to the Roman era, the cultivation of grapes has been intricately woven into the development and settlement of the region throughout the centuries. Though nearly wiped out during the period of Muslim rule (early 6th century to the mid 12th century) the Cistercian Order brought back its cultivation during the Catholic “reconquest” of the peninsula. The ability to grow grapes has attracted settlers to the region ever since, and the towns and villages they built retain historic monuments that define the region’s landscape.

La Conca’s “wine cathedrals” are an excellent example of the importance of wine to this region. At the end of the the 18th century it began to experience a surge in wine exports and at the beginning of the 19th century a number of Modernista cellers—wine cellars built during the vanguard of the Catalan artistic movement—were built throughout its historic towns. Their elaborate and majestic design is what gave them their grandiose nickname, and the space and light that their architecture provides makes them spectacular to behold.

The Regional Capital: Montblanc

If you’ve only got a day to get away, La Conca de Barberà’s capital Montblanc is a top choice—it’s like being in a giant open-air museum. Founded by Alfons I in February 1163 on a small hill void of vegetation (hence its name, which literally means “empty mountain”) its monumental muralles (walls) are the most complete medieval defensive walls in Catalunya. With 25 towers and an impressive perimeter of 1700 meters, it boasts numerous Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque buildings within.

At the highest point in the historic center sits Santa Maria la Major also known as the “Cathedral of the Mountain.” Began in 1315 where the original Romanesque church stood, construction halted in the 14th century with the arrival of the Black Plague and again in the 15th century due to the Catalan Civil Wars. Though unfinished, it was finally consecrated in 1548 without a façade or bell tower. In 1580 a Gothic façade was built only to be destroyed in La Guerra dels Segadors (The Reapers' War) less than one hundred years later. The intricate Baroque façade you can see now juxtaposed onto a much more plain overall structure was added in the 17th century. Some have compared this church to Barcelona’s Santa Maria del Mar, given the stark contrast in architectural styles which make up its whole.

In the heart of the medieval center lies the Plaça Major, notable not only for its porticoed square and excellent preservation but also for the historic buildings that have been preserved there, including:

Casa de la Vila

Though its origins lie in the 13th century, the Casa de la Vila—like Santa Maria La Major—was severely damaged in La Guerra dels Segadors and faced multiple subsequent reforms. Restored in 1979, much of the façade you see today dates from the 17th century. It continues to house the city hall and is open to the public M-F 8:00-15:00.

Porxos de Cal Malet

Next to the Casa de la Vila under the arcaded porch of a residential home were the official grain measures of the town. From 1752 until 1905 merchants measured grain in carved quarter and three-quarters stones and they can still be seen there today. Open air.

Font Major

As a preventative measure against the recurrence of malaria, the Font Major was built at the beginning of the 18th century bringing fresh water into Montblanc from the nearby source La Pasquala, a tributary of the Francolí River. Designed to bring water for humans and animals alike, it has four spigots and a large trough and remains largely unchanged from its original design. Open air.

Casal Desclergue

Built around 1575, Casal Desclergue was the former residence of the veguer (feudal administrative head) and it remained in the family until the 18th century. Originally, its façade was in line with the rest of the buildings on the square, but was enlarged significantly by the family adding the three sided porch, the balcony and the upper floor was expanded with a gallery of lowered arches. Currently it houses the BBVA bank. (Not open to the public.)

Within the medieval walls and without there are numerous Gothic churches and manor houses built from the 13th to the 15th centuries that can be visited including: Església de Sant Francesc (1250), the Santuari de la Serra (1295), Església de Sant Miquel (1288), Església de Sant Marçal (1339—only open to the public during Setmana Santa), Casal dels Josa (13th cen.—which currently houses the regional museum), Palau Alenyà (14th cen.) and the Hospital de Santa Magdalena (1491-1515).

Folklore

The town was at its heyday in the 14th century, when Montblanc was an important political base. The Catalan parliament (les Corts Catalanes) was held there on four occasions during that period of splendor; however, the following centuries brought disease, strife and decline, leading to the recession of Montblanc from its place as an important Southern Catalan town.

But Montblanc has retained its important status in another, more mysterious way: the folklore of the region. The Catalan ethnologist and folklorist Joan Amades claimed the tale of Sant Jordi slaying the dragon took place outside the walls of Montblanc, and so the town celebrates the day of Sant Jordi particularly passionately when it comes around every April.

As well as the Catalan custom of giving roses to girls and books to boys on Sant Jordi, Montblanc puts on a week of festivities to mark the occasion each year. The town comes to life in a traditional medieval festival, complete with costumes, dragons and, of course, roses. There is also a medieval market which takes place in the streets of the old town, with 130 stalls selling locally produced goods.

La Conca de Barberà’s Crown Jewel

To the west of Montblanc just outside of Vimbodí i Poblet lies La Conca de Barberà’s crowning jewel, the feature which draws in visitors from across Catalunya and beyond: the Reial Monestir de Santa Maria de Poblet. It remains the largest inhabited Cistercian monastery in Europe and has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991.

Founded in 1150, Poblet is one of a trio of Cistercian communities set up as part of a strategy of reorganization and repopulation of “New Catalunya,” adopted by the Catalan-Aragonese rulers after the expulsion of the Moors. You can still visit about half the monastery, including the main cloister, the 13th-century kitchen, dining-room and dormitories. Tours are also available to explore the impressive 14th-century tombs of eight members of the Aragonese royal family.

The lands around the monastery, once used by the monks for farming, have been recognized as a Natural Area of National Interest. From the Prades Mountains to the Forest of Poblet, the whole area is ideal for long country walks and spotting wild animals like wild boar, roe-deer, badgers and shrews. Established hiking routes are clearly marked throughout the area, setting off from the youth hostel next to Poblet Monastery, before taking in local features such as the monastery’s old well for storing ice (pou de gel), quarries and caves.

Other Spots to Visit

Another of La Conca’s medieval towns is Santa Coloma de Queralt, which sits at the confluence of three rivers. Water has always been an important asset to the town, which is highlighted by the 17th-century Fonts de les Canelles, situated at the point where the River Gaià rises. The fonts (fountains) feature eight bronze taps in a line, from which water pours into a stone trough below, where traditionally both humans and animals alike would drink from it.

If you’re planning a longer trip around the area, the town of Vimbodí i Poblet is definitely worth your time. Glass-making is the town’s traditional industry, and there is a fascinating Glass Museum and plenty of places to buy the classic Catalan porró (a wine container with a long, thin spout for drinking). As you wander the village streets, be sure to check out the Carrer de les Abraçades. Measuring only 94 cm wide, it is the narrowest street not just in Catalunya, but in all of Spain. Also of interest is the Castell de Milmanda. Originally a farm belonging to the Poblet Monastery, it is now owned by the Torres wine purveyors and you can not only tour the farm and castle, but you can taste the wine as well.

East of Vimbodí i Poblet is L’Espluga de Francolí, where caves are the main attraction. There are a couple of good museums too: the Museu del Vi (Wine Museum) in a Modernista wine-cellar and the Museu de la Vida Rural, dedicated to Catalan country life.

No visit to the region would be complete without a sample of it’s famous wines, and the town Barberà de la Conca is the place to go for that, as it has long been the focus for the wine and cava industry of the area. It is also the home of Spain’s first cooperative winery—the Sociedad de Trabajadores Agrícolas—a beautiful building with its own Modernista celler. If you opt for a guided tour of the village, a visit to the celler and the 11th century Castell de Barberà de la Conca are included.

Local Delicacies

You won’t go hungry in La Conca, that’s for sure. One of the area’s specialties is cargols (snails), typically cooked a la llauna, literally meaning “in the tin,” which is how they are served. If you like something more meaty, civet de jabalí is a traditional stew-like dish marinated in red wine, vegetables, herbs and wild boar’s blood. Another regional favorite is coca de recapte: a savory pastry topped with a range of items that can include botifarra, sardines and peppers (recapte translates as leftovers).

Those with a sweet tooth will want to indulge in carquinyoli biscuits from L’Espluga de Francolí, coca de poma (apple cake) from Vimbodí and merlets or montblanquines (sweet pastry dough filled with almonds) from Montblanc.

Additionally, there are 23 wine and cava producers in La Conca de Barberà, as well as many historic cooperatives where you can pick up a delicious bottle of reasonably priced wine.

Where to Stay

Those looking for a relaxing getaway should head to Vallfogona de Riucorb, which has two spas to choose from: the three-star rated Hotel Balneari and the four-star Hotel Regina and Spa.

A cheaper option is the Alberg de Joventut Jaume I hostel, situated close to Poblet Monastery. While you might be compromising on creature comforts, the setting here is sublime, and it is probably the best option for those wanting to explore the surrounding countryside.

Fans of sleeping outdoors can find great, fully serviced campsites near Montblanc as well as camping and bungalows to rent near Vilanova de Prades.

More Info

• El Monastir de Poblet : Tel. 977 87 02 54
• La Conca de Barberà Tourism Bureau
• Oficina Municipal de Turisme de Montblanc: Tel. 977 86 17 33
• Oficina d’Informació Turística de Santa Coloma de Queralt: Tel. 977 88 04 78
• Oficina Comarcal de Turisme Poblet-Vimbodí: Tel. 977 87 12 47
• Oficina Municipal de Turisme de L’Espluga de Francolí: Tel. 977 87 12 20