A Weekend in Begur
Located in the Baix Empordá area of the Costa Brava, the charming village of Begur makes for a fine weekend getaway, ideally located for exploring some of the most beautiful calas: perfect turquoise bays that represent the very essence of the Costa Brava. Despite being a hot spot for tourism, the enchanting village center retains its historic character. A labyrinth of quaint narrow streets buzz with holiday spirit around the Plaça de la Vila, the church of Sant Pere de Begur, and the town hall, whilst the 11th-century hilltop castle casts a watchful eye over the town and offers superb vistas over the surrounding countryside.
This is the chic face of the Costa Brava, where world-class cuisine and cool cocktails replace expat pubs and all-day breakfasts. In the summer months, the area’s population can swell by up to ten times, catering for nearly 40,000 visitors in accommodation ranging from 19th century mansions built by rich merchants, to fishermen’s houses and sleek contemporary hideaways.
Getting There
Begur is 136 km from Barcelona, best reached by car (approximately 1.5 hours). Sarfa runs three bus services per day between Barcelona’s Estació Nord (or El Prat Airport) and Begur, which take 2.5 hours (€19.50 one way). Once there, private transport enables greater flexibility for discovering the local area, although it is possible to traverse the nearby calas on foot via the Camí de Ronda, or by catching a local hourly bus to the beach.
Sleeping
Although this is the higher end of the tourist trail, there’s still something to suit all budgets in Begur and the surrounding areas. For penny pinchers or family fun, try the well-equipped and naturally shaded Camping El Maset, located moments from the sandy cove of Sa Riera. At the other end of the scale, find beachfront boutiques and tasty Catalan cuisine at Sa Rascassa, set in the fishermen’s cala of Sa Tuna, revel in nature at the 17th-century El Convent, or sample village life in the Aiguaclara Hotel, housed within a colonial-style mansion dating from 1866.
Eating and Drinking
Feast on incredible fresh fish at the tiny, traditional Casa Juanita, hearty Catalan classics at El Recer de la Mar or popular pizzas at La Pizzeta. Or, enjoy some chilled-out al fresco cocktails beneath the hanging lanterns at C-Roak or in the hidden gardens of La Lluna.
This article was originally published in July 2014 and updated September 28, 2021.