by Nick Mead

September 17, 2010

It’s hard to remember that Barcelona was once just a modest fishing port—at least until taking a walk in the area tucked away over by the clock tower, across the water from the back of Maremagnum. The grimy docks there, covered in fish scales and netting, are where fishermen toil, as they have for centuries, in one of the few quintessentially working-class areas left in the centre of Barcelona. This year, work will begin on giving the docks a facelift similar to the one the 1992 Olympic Games brought to the rest of Port Vell and the Olympic port. Over the next few years, Barcelona’s fishing docks will be completely transformed into a modern port, but also somewhere both residents and tourists can enjoy. A fish market, restaurant and 21st-century docking facilities will make Barcelona’s fishermen the envy of the Mediterranean—at least while the fish stocks last.

“Ask anyone in Barcelona where the fishing docks are and they’d be hard pressed to tell you, even those that have lived here a long time,” said Pedro Jorquera, the president of Barcelona’s Cofradía de Pescadores (Fisherman’s Guild). “It’s simply an area that people don’t go to, or even know about. This project will put the docks firmly on the map by making it a place where people can relax, take a walk, buy and eat fresh fish, as well as watch fishermen at work. The docks will become another part of Barcelona where people can spend time and savour the atmosphere.”

Of course, making the docks a more pleasant place is only half of the equation. The main aim is to improve the facilities, especially for larger trawlers. Amongst the plans is a huge ice manufacturing plant capable of producing 800 tons a day, a galley and walkway where people can stroll through and observe the docks, extensive parking facilities, a fish auction, new offices, a restaurant and state-of-the-art docking facilities. Although long overdue, the renovation plans have been finally prompted by the rising land prices around Barcelona. The huge economic and leisure potential of the area is set to be realised, symbolised by the Fisherman’s Guild’s recent decision to lease its old headquarters to a hotel. The trendy Hotel 54, with views of the sea and port area, will command rates of up to €180 a night—not bad in an area where the average wage of a fisherman is little more than that per week. “Developers are really starting to covet this area,” says Jorquera. “It’s been neglected for a long time but now people have seen its potential with sea views, close proximity to the centre, beaches, etc.”

by Nick Mead

September 17, 2010

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