Tearing It up in Tarragonès

November 30, 2018 2:32 PM

Aqüeducte de les Ferreres (Pont del Diable). Photo by Tara Shain.

Nestled along the Mediterranean coast in the lower half of Catalunya, the crescent moon-shaped comarca (county) of Tarragonès is a watery playground, as beach after sandy beach stretches away toward the neighboring counties of Baix Penedès and Baix Camp. Its seaside geography means that it was, and continues to be, a principal site of Catalan industry. However, in recent years, the focus of its economy has predictably shifted from fish to tourists. And while its seemingly endless coastline makes it the ideal place for the leisurely pleasures of summer vacationing (and trips to Port Aventura amusement park), the comarca’s long-standing cultural significance—most clearly manifested in its ancient and monument-laden capital—makes it a worthy tourist destination at any time of year.

Things to See

In the middle of the comarca and easily accessible, the capital city of Tarragona (also a UNESCO World Heritage City) is a good place to start one’s Tarragonès experience. During their approximately 250-year occupation of the town, the Romans built the numerous monuments that form the core of Tarragona’s cultural importance today and its appeal to travelers and tourists. The amphitheater, circus and city walls (muralles) were all built between 200 BCE and 2 CE, and are the principal archaeological sites within the municipal limits of Tarragona. They can be freely explored or toured with a group and guide.

Tarragona amphitheatre. Photo by Tara Shain

Just outside the city, four kilometers away, is the Roman aqueduct—Aqüeducte de les Ferreres—also known as the Devil’s Bridge (Pont del Diable). Like the amphitheater and the city walls, it is an open-air monument, so no entrance fee is required.

Jumping ahead to the 12th century, the Tarragona Cathedral is a stunning sight for its mix of Romanesque and Gothic elements. Also worth a visit in Tarragona is El Call, the old Jewish quarter, with its labyrinthine streets and dark history, as well as Castell Tamarit, the 11th-century seaside castle with gardens that practically plunge down into the water.

Castell Tamarit. Photo by Tara Shain.

Other towns of interest include Altafulla, with its charming and well-preserved medieval castle, Roman ruins and Neoclassical church, and nearby Torredembarra, with its four beautiful beaches, bustling fish market and handful of architectural gems.

Moving away from the sights of Tarragonès towns, the Torre de Montoliu and the Torre de l’Abella, both located near the small, pretty town of Riera de Gaià, are ancient ruins shrouded in a romantic atmosphere. Built in the 11th century, the towers themselves aren’t much to look at, but they are perfect endpoints to easy hikes that, once completed, offer lovely views of the surrounding countryside.

What to Eat and Drink

With over 70,000 hectares of vineyards, Tarragona wines have been recognized for decades. The white wines, which account for 70% of all those produced in the region, are markedly Mediterranean with an aromatic, fresh and flavorful character. Try them with a handful of almonds or hazelnuts—other treats cultivated in Tarragonès since pre-Roman times.

Another favorite of the region is its romesco sauce, made with local peppers, almonds, olive oil and tomatoes. A close variation of the sauce is traditionally prepared to accompany fire-grilled calçots, the famed winter onion also grown in the area.

This article has been adapted from a 2008 article in Barcelona Metropolitan.