A Weekend in Céret
When it comes to the south of France, it’s hard to picture anywhere more typical than Céret. This medieval village has everything you’d expect from the region: an artistic past, leafy squares, a busy market, and streets lined with terraces where locals stop for a coffee. However, if you look a little closer, you’ll see a Catalan flavor lies amidst the French countryside idyll. Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, in the shadow of mount Canigó, you can find the red and yellow stripes of the Catalan flag, sardana dancing and stalls selling roses and books for La Diada de Sant Jordi on April 23rd—not surprising, given that Céret is situated in the heart of French Catalunya, the area that was ceded to France by the 1660 Treaty of the Pyrenees. Nevertheless, a French ambience prevails, and although just 20 minutes north of the Spanish border, a weekend break here feels a world apart.
Saturday
Your surroundings may ooze laid-back conviviality, but that’s no excuse to sleep in. Get your day off to an early start at the Saturday market, which is at its best between 9:00 and 11:00. Strolling through this local street market lined by rustic buildings is a treat for the senses. Absorb the sights and smells of the locally produced fruit and vegetables, olives, cheeses, cured meats and wines. If you’re after non-edible products, you’ll also find flower stalls bursting with color, as well as jewellery and pottery stands.
Continue exploring with a walking tour past some of the town’s most prominent buildings. Start at Maison Delcros (3 Rue des Évadés de France), the ancient building in which Picasso lived and had his workshop during his time in Céret (1911-13). A two-minute walk from here takes you to Place de la Liberté, where you’ll find the town’s war memorial, topped with Aristide Maillol’s sculpture of a woman, named La Douleur (meaning sorrow). From here, move onto the 13th-century Porte d’Espagne, a gateway through the town’s former medieval walls that faces towards Spain. Burrowing into the heart of the old town, you’ll find the imposing Church of Saint Peter, records of which go back to the year 814. Finally, it’s just a short walk from here to the Porte de France on Rue du Commerce, a sister gateway to the Porte d’Espagne.
After all this exercise, it’s time for a sit down in the Place des Neuf Jets (Square of the Nine Jets). This square is named after its central fountain, dating from 1313. It has been modified several times during the course of its life, first in 1479, after the union of the kingdoms of Aragon and Castille, with the addition of a lion statue looking towards Spain. After the 1660 Treaty of the Pyrenees, Louis XIV turned the lion to face France and inscribed ‘Venite Ceretens, leo factus est gallus’ (Come and see, people of Céret, the lion (of Castille) has become a (French) cockerel). During repairs in 2013, the lion was returned to its original position facing Spain. History aside, this pleasant square is full of terraces, the ideal spot for lunch.
After lunch, head towards the Pont du Diable (Devil’s Bridge), which is a 20-minute walk north of the town. This bridge dates back to 1321 and is rumored to have been built by the devil, who demanded, as payment, the first soul who crossed it. It was also the world’s biggest bridge arch at the time of its construction.
In the evening, return to Céret for dinner in one of the town’s many lively bistros which serve fresh French and Catalan cuisine in a relaxed, rustic setting.
Sunday
Céret’s main cultural highlight is the Musée d’Art Moderne (8 Boulevard Maréchal Joffre). The town’s links with many 20th-century artists led to the opening of the museum in 1950. Over time, the museum has built up a collection of works from several modern masters, including Picasso, Chagall, Matisse and Soutine, as well as more contemporary pieces and a space for traveling exhibitions.
Spend the morning here, then keep up the artistic vibes with a pit stop at Le Grand Caf' (2 Rue Saint-Ferréol)—a popular haunt of the artistic crowd in the early 20th century. It’s now an excellent spot for a coffee and an ice cream.
In the afternoon, take the Chemins Sublimés walk around town. This will take you past the buildings and scenes that were painted by the artists. A map of this walk is available from the tourist information center (5 Rue Saint-Ferréol), and next to the buildings there are reproductions of the works they inspired.
Festivals
Cherry Festival, End of May
Cherries grown along the River Tech are famous for being the first to ripen in France and, since 1932, a batch has been gifted to the French president every year. The annual Céret Cherry Festival is a weekend of markets, music, dancing and a wide array of cherry-based produce, from cherry wine to beer and pie.
Feria, Second Weekend of July
Held in the middle of July, the Feria de Céret is a weekend of festivities, when the town is taken over by markets, music, street entertainment and al fresco eating and drinking. One of the main events is a bull run and bullfight, but if this isn’t for you, there are plenty of other activities to keep you entertained. The day before the event, the feria dels joves (children's fair) offers the youngest a succession of games as well as fireworks.
Sardana Festival, Weekend after Feria
For three days, groups of dancers from all over Catalunya congregate in the streets and squares to perform this traditional Catalan dance. Discover the sardana, learn the dance or simply enjoy the music from the coblas in the most iconic squares of Céret.
Fête Patronale, September 18th or following Sunday
Around September 18th, Céret explodes in celebration of it's patron saint, Saint Ferréol. On the program is a carnival, a show at the Eden cinema-theatre, pétanque competition, dinner dance, musical aubade, cycling race, Lyon bowls competition, fireworks and a trobada de puntaires of the famous Catalan lacemakers!
Published September 3, 2017, updated May 15, 2023.