Garraf Massif: A Peaceful Escape Is Closer than You Think
Heading south from Barcelona, the first port of call for a day trip is usually the ever-popular seaside town of Sitges. En route, however, one has to go around, under or over the mountainous coastal landscape of the Garraf Massif, home to rugged parkland, idyllic beaches and quaint seaside towns. The Parc Natural del Garraf hides amidst these coastal mountains, whose dense shrubland and chalky slopes are dotted with cavities and sinkholes. Follow the rugged cliffs down to the sea, and you will find the quiet coastal town of Garraf, a former fishing village with a peaceful stretch of golden sand. As rich in archaeological history as it is in natural beauty, and only a stone’s throw from Barcelona, it’s the perfect place to escape the crowded city and enjoy the sunshine in tranquility.
Parc Natural del Garraf
This natural park covers a large area of the massif. The landscape is characterized by limestone hills covered in dense thickets of low rise shrubs and occasional wooded areas. Deep valleys, eroded over time, are riddled with caves and underground lakes, and reach down into clear Mediterranean waters. The park itself is notable for being an almost entirely uninhabited rural area, and the rugged landscape offers a wealth of options for hikers, cyclists, stargazers and those seeking a peaceful retreat.
Hiking Trails
The park’s looping hiking and cycling trails are all clearly marked and wind around the mountain’s rugged landscape. The jagged scenery, which is littered with chasms and canals, evolved gradually over centuries of water and wind erosion. Trails can be found on the Parcs de Catalunya website.
Astronomical Observatory
The Garraf Astronomical Observatory is located at the park’s entrance. It offers guided visits every two months and can be booked for events such as anniversaries and parties.
Garraf
Sheltered at the base of calciferous cliffs is the small and sleepy seaside town of Garraf. Formerly a fishing village, the area suffered pirate attacks up until the 18th century. In the center, there is a small whitewashed church dedicated to the Virgin Mary and a property designed by Antoni Gaudí, known as Celler Güell. Far less busy than neighboring Sitges, Garraf retains much of its authenticity, and locals still come together in the square in the evenings to play cards or dominoes. Its long fishing history means that fresh produce can be found in both local markets and restaurants.
Sakya Tashi Ling Buddhist Monastery
High in the hills is the Modernista mansion of La Plana Novella, built by Pere Domenech i Grau in 1890. Since 1996 it has been the location of the Sakya Tashi Ling Tibetan Buddhist monastery and community. The retreat is the first of its kind in Catalunya, and offers guided tours, an exhibition on Tibetan art and culture, relaxation workshops and activities related to inner harmony. A more recent endeavor is Restaurant Colònia Agrícola Plana Novella, which is dedicated to using locally grown, traditional Mediterranean products. The monastery is open to visitors on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday from 11:00 to 18:00 and on weekends 9:30 to 19:00, and the restaurant is open Wednesday through Saturday (reservations recommended). monjesbudistas.org
Celler Güell
The architectural complex of Celler Güell was commissioned by Eusebi Güell in 1882, after he saw Antoni Gaudí’s work at the Paris World’s Fair in 1878. The original plans included a winery and several hunting pavilions, but the latter were never built. With a triangular profile, steep sloping roofs and asymmetrical arches, the whimsical winery was completed in 1897 to a suitably Gaudí finish, and produced wine for the Compañía Transatlántica Española shipping fleet. For a while, Güell produced wine here, but production was stopped in 1936 due to a lack of commercial success.
Platja del Garraf
Below the village is a stretch of golden sand, lined with white and green wooden beach houses, originally used by fishermen. The peaceful cove is 350 meters long and 25 meters wide, with showers, toilets, sun loungers, paddle boats and umbrellas available for rent. A small selection of restaurants overlooks the bay, and Garraf’s port offers a variety of water sports and activities. At the northern end of the beach sits Little Beach House; what was once a rundown hotel has been renovated by Soho House Barcelona, with 17 luxury guest rooms and a beach club vibe.
La Cúpula
Perched atop a rocky outcrop at the southern end of the beach, La Cúpula serves fresh, locally sourced food with an emphasis on seafood and rice dishes. Soak in the extraordinary sea views as you dine on traditional Mediterranean dishes and local wine. Main courses start at €15.95, and a tasting menu is available for €36.30.
Club Nàutic Garraf
Founded in 1965, the Club Nàutic Garraf is situated in the port at the southern end of town. The club has a cafeteria, restaurant, swimming pool, gym and sauna, and offers a range of activities, including sailing, paddle boarding and kayaking lessons for all ages and abilities, as well as diving trips and cruises.
Originally published June 2018, updated August 3, 2021.