A Weekend Escape in Carcassonne

A city in southern France imbued with the spirit of the past, Carcassonne boasts 2,500 years of history and two UNESCO World Heritage sites. The first, the 240-kilometre-long Canal du Midi, is the work of engineer Pierre-Paul Riquet and was excavated in the 17th century to realize the impossible dream of linking the Atlantic and the Mediterranean.

Once used to transport goods and people, the canal is now primarily frequented by boaters and tourists. Carcassonne Croisières offers eight cruises from the Port de Carcassonne, from city cruises to dinner cruises. Peacefully drifting down the canal, under the platanes (French plane trees symbolic of socializing), you’ll enjoy the picturesque landscape and panoramic views of the Cité de Carcassonne, the city’s second UNESCO World Heritage site.

Perched on a hill on the right bank of the Aude river, overlooking the town of Carcassonne, the medieval citadel is protected by three-kilometer-long, double surrounding walls, interspersed by 52 towers. A fortified city unlike any other in Europe, on account of its size and its state of preservation, the Cité de Carcassonne has seen the Romans, Visigoths, Saracens, Franks and Crusaders all at its doorstep.

While you can explore between the two rows of the city walls, it’s also free to walk on top of the outer rampart, which was built on the order of King Louis IX. Through arrow slits and in between the slanted, vermilion and icy blue slate roofs of the brick towers—which some refer to as "witch hat roofs"—are views of the surrounding vineyards. The scent of pine shrubs, fresh rosemary and thyme, and sweet flowers is carried on the cool winds that roll off the mountains further afield. Known as the garrigue, it is the signature scent of the south of France.

The Basilique Saint-Nazaire-et-Saint-Celseis a Roman Catholic church located within the city walls, situated next to the citadel’s modernized amphitheater. Famed for its magnificent stained glass windows, the site is now a national monument and is worth a peek inside. The central stained glass window of the choir, dating from 1280, is one of the oldest in the south of France. Together with the upper trefoil windows (the Resurrection of Jesus and the Resurrection of the dead), it depicts the life of Christ.

The "new town" of Carcassonne is rather small and sleepy. It has a pleasant central square dominated by a huge fountain, and a few nice shops and restaurants, but the star here is the citadel. 

If you’re looking for more to do in the area, the Languedoc-Roussillon region is currently one of the world’s most interesting wine-making regions. It comprises some 290,000 hectares of vines, roughly 2,800 producers, and its annual average production equates to 2,133 million bottles of wine. Although Languedoc-Roussillon’s heritage has often been overlooked in the modern era, due to its emphasis on quantity rather than quality, the past 20 years have seen a new focus on quality. Carcassonne is an ideal base for exploring two of the region’s finest wine-growing areas: the Minervois AOC to the north and the rugged Corbières AOC to the south. 

The red wines of Minervois are produced from garignan, grenache, lledoner pelut, mourvèdre and syrah grapes, while Corbières is the region’s largest AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée, or protected designation of origin), where red wine accounts for 95 percent of its production. Due to its size and geography, Corbières encompasses an enormous variety of soil types and micro-climates, and its wines tend to be as varied as the land. 

Vin en Vacances has daily wine and food tours that allow you to taste the diverse wines made here with a friendly wine expert by your side. Its one-day vineyard tours include visits to independent, family-run wineries, all of which have sustainable farming at the heart of their operation. Or you can arrange for a private tasting, with or without food, in the comfort of your holiday home.

For a more indulgent experience, Cocoa & Grapes pairs local fine wines with exquisite handmade chocolates. You’ll be able to savor both as your guide tells fascinating stories about the history of Carcassonne. The four-hour walking and tasting tour takes place in the Bastide Saint-Louis area of the new town and costs €85 per person.

Where to Stay

L’Échappée Belle is a bed and breakfast inside the citadel—just one of 50 permanent residence households within the ancient city walls.

Hotel de la Cité Carcassonne is a picture-perfect, five-star hotel, within the city walls, that resembles a medieval château and features lush gardens and an outdoor pool with views of the basilica. Find true relaxation on your vacation during a signature treatment at the hotel’s Cinq Mondes Spa.

O’Vineyards is a boutique hotel run by enthusiastic hosts Joe and Liz O’Connell, who are both amazing cooks. A 20-minute drive from the Cité de Carcassonne, it is surrounded by grapevines, which guests are free to wander through on their own. O’Vineyards also offers guided winery visits, including the O’Winemaker Experience (€249/person), in which participants learn the seasonal art of winemaking, create their own label, receive a gift box of three local wines and feast on a five-course meal with an open wine bar. 

Where to Eat

Le Jardin en Ville serves fresh, French-style cuisine. Its menu is dictated by seasonal produce, and it grows its own strawberries, raspberries, peas and tomatoes; all other main ingredients are procured from local vegetable farmers. The interesting retro charm of the restaurant, garden and rooftop terrace carries through to Le Jardin en Ville’s concept store, which sells metal furniture, quirky decorations and art.

L’Escargot is located inside the citadel, offers modern recipes and an informal atmosphere. Its tapas are tasty, but it also has set menus for €19.50 and €29.50. 

La Barbacane serves haute cuisine—every dish on the menu needs a two-line description—and is one of six Michelin-starred restaurant in Carcassone, with chef Jérôme Ryon at the helm. Part of Hotel de la Cité Carcassonne, the Gothic interior is elegant and provides the perfect setting to try the duck foie gras (one of the best in town) and grilled royal sea bream, garnished with turnip and chicory, among other delicious dishes.

Restaurant Comte Roger is a contemporary restaurant inside the citadel with a tree-lined terrace. Its cassoulet, made from a family recipe with pork, duck leg and white beans, is outstanding. A rich, slow-cooked casserole originating in the area of Languedoc, cassoulet is a deceptively humble mess of meat and beans, which often comes under the modish heading of ‘peasant fare’. 

The Legend of Lady Carcus

On the citadel’s drawbridge, a replica of Lady Carcas’s bust welcomes visitors. The original, dating from the 16th century, is preserved inside. 

Legend has it that in the eighth century, during the wars between Christians and Muslims in the south-west of Europe, Charlemagne’s army came to the gates of Carcassonne to reconquer the city for the Franks. A Saracen princess named Carcas, who ruled the knights of the city after the death of her husband, led a five-year siege against the invaders. 

Early in the sixth year, when food and water were running out, Lady Carcas fed one of the last remaining pigs a sack of wheat and threw it from the highest tower of the city walls. Led to believe that the city’s inhabitants had so much food that they could afford to waste a pig like that—and so could maintain a stronghold over the city for the foreseeable future—Charlemagne lifted the siege.

Overjoyed by her plan’s success, Lady Carcas ordered the villagers to sound all the bells in the city. One of Charlemagne’s retreating men exclaimed, “Carcas sonne!” (“Carcas sounds”), and so the city was named.

Although a charming tale, historically it can’t be true. The antagonist, Charlemagne, could not have sent his army to besiege Carcassonne, as his father, Pepin the Short, had already taken the city from the Saracens prior to his reign.

Published February 1, 2018, updated October 2, 2023.