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Tortell de Reis AKA "Kings' Cake"

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Commonly believed to have originated in Old World France and Spain, the tortell de Reis (kings’ cake) is a much-loved holiday tradition in Catalunya and beyond. It’s known as gâteau des rois in French, reiaume in Occitan, rosca de Reyes in Spanish and bolo rei in Portuguese.

Every year on January 6, nearly every bakery will have some version of this sweet bread to celebrate the Twelfth Day of Christmas, known locally as the Dia dels Reis (Three Kings’ Day) or the Epiphany in English.

However, some believe its history stretches even further back to the Roman winter solstice celebration, Saturnalia. Originating in ancient agricultural rituals, Saturnalia was characterized by feasting, role reversals and wide behavioral license. In many households, one feature of the festivities was the arbitrary naming of a mock king to act as “Lord of Misrule” and according to Larousse Gastronomique, the king “was chosen by lot, using a bean concealed in a galette.”

Today, the bean can still be found baked into the cake, along with a tiny ceramic king. According to custom, whoever receives the piece of cake with the figurine is crowned “king” for the day and whoever receives the piece with the bean has to provide the tortell (cake) for the coming year.

Traditionally, the Catalan tortell is a rich and tender brioche stuffed with marzipan and topped with candied fruits. Tortells are widely available in bakeries and supermarkets during the holiday season, but there’s nothing quite like homemade.

INGREDIENTS:

STEPS:

1. In a food processor or blender, combine 1/2 cup sugar and both citrus zests and process on high speed until fine. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in warm—not hot!—milk and let stand for about 5 minutes, or until foamy.

3. To the yeast mixture, add the sugar-zest mixture, softened butter, two eggs, orange flower water and salt. Stir with a wooden spoon until all ingredients are well mixed.

4. Add half the flour to the bowl and mix with your hands until well blended. Add the remaining flour and continue mixing until fully incorporated.

5. Knead the dough in the bowl for a few minutes until it is smooth, flexible and no longer sticky. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel and let the dough rest in a warm spot until it has roughly doubled in size (about one hour).

6. Preheat the oven to its lowest setting and brush a rimmed baking sheet with olive oil.

7. Punch down the dough. On a floured work surface, using your palms, roll the dough back and forth until it forms a log about 30 inches long and 2 1/2 inches in diameter. Place it on the prepared baking sheet and bring the ends together to form a circle with a hole in the center, forming a “crown.” Tuck the bean and the king figurine into the dough and be careful that they’re not near one another.

8. Turn off the oven. Fill an ovenproof bowl with water and place it at the rear of the oven. Place the baking sheet with the dough crown in the warm oven. Let the dough rise for about one hour, or until it’s nearly doubled in size.

9. Remove the dough from the oven and preheat to 205°C (400°F). Beat the remaining egg in a small bowl and then brush it onto the dough. Scatter the candied fruits evenly over the top and sprinkle evenly with sugar. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until golden. When done, transfer to a wire rack and let cool on the pan.

10. Carefully slice the cake in half crosswise. Spread the bottom layer with the filling of your choice and then gently add the top layer of the cake. Serve and enjoy!

Recipe adapted from Teresa Barrenechea’s cookbook The Cuisines of Spain: Exploring Regional Home Cooking.

Published November 30, 2018, updated January 3, 2024.

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