What Do You Know about Poble-sec?

El Poble-sec is one of eight barris of the Sants-Montjuïc district and spans roughly 460.5 hectares (4.6 sq km) between Avinguda del Paraŀlel and Montjuïc. Official development of the area began in the 19th century and with every decade the neighborhood has seen a variety of changes in its inhabitants, food offerings, entertainment outlets and culture, with the old and the new standing side-by-side on every corner.

Up until the late 1800s, walls enclosed the city of Barcelona; it was overcrowded, filthy and working conditions were miserable, so people began to settle outside the walls in the area that is now Poble Sec. A part of the medieval city wall still exists today and can be seen at the end of Avinguda del Paraŀlel, running alongside the Museu Maritime de Barcelona.

Poble-sec­, a 20th Century Power House

Named Poble-sec­—dry village in Catalan—because the neighborhood had no source of water until the late 19th century when a fountain was built, it holds an important place in the history of Catalunya. It was here that American engineer Frederick Stark Pearson set up the Barcelona Traction Light and Power Company to administer the development and implementation of hydro-electric power originating from the Segre and Noguera Pallaresa rivers. Dubbed La Canadenca—the Canadian—by locals because it was incorporated in Toronto, Canada, the factory provided electricity to Catalunya and turned Poble-sec into the industrial capital of Barcelona. The factory brought with it many employees, who took up residence in the neighborhood due to its low-cost housing and close proximity to the factory. While the original plant is no longer operational (Red Eléctrica de España has stood in the same location since 1985), a nod to La Canadenca and the neighborhoods roots still exists in the form of the original smoke stacks, which tower over Poble-sec.

Today, just off Avinguda del Paraŀlel, in front of the three chimneys, is the Parc de les Tres Xemeneies del Poble-sec. A small skate park, often teeming with young locals, it is punctuated by original pieces of the machinery from La Canadenca, juxtaposing history with modernity, something Poble-sec does famously.

The Theater District

During the years following the Civil War, locals in Barcelona sought refuge in the bars and theaters of Poble-sec. Popular venues such as El Molino, which still exists today, served as a space for people to escape the post-war troubles and look toward a brighter future for Spain.

Opened in 1898, El Molino is Barcelona’s answer to Paris’s Moulin Rouge, and was, indeed, originally called Le Petit Moulin Rouge. After over 100 years in the cabaret business, El Molino shut its doors for 15 years, recently reopening after a revamp to its interior, bringing world-class cabaret and burlesque back to Poble-sec. The neighborhood also features additional theaters, with La Ciutat del Teatre, Mercat de les Flors (previously a flower market), and Sala Apolo being the most famous among them.

The barri’s most well-known export is Joan Manuel Serrat, who was born in Poble-sec in 1943 and is one of Spain’s most popular singers. His Catalan nickname, el noi del Poble-sec—the boy from Poble-sec—still ties him to the neighborhood. His childhood home is located at Poeta Cabanyes, 95, where a plaque marks the spot.

Poble-sec Today

The neighborhood of Poble-sec remains modest and virtually untouched by tourists, unlike the bordering districts of Raval and Eixample, which are overrun with hotels and restaurants. Poble-sec’s architecture is simple, and housing has remained relatively inexpensive compared to other neighborhoods in the city. Located just a 15-minute walk from the tourist center of Les Rambles and about 20 minutes from the beach, the neighborhood is ideally positioned close to the hustle and bustle of the city center, yet far enough to have its own array of local hotspots and traditional, inexpensive restaurants.

About a third of its residents are foreign nationals, coming primarily from Italy, the Philippines and Pakistan, making it an incredibly diverse neighborhood were world music can be heard any time of the day along Carrer Blai—the pedestrian-only, beating heart of Poble-sec’s streetlife.

One of the neighborhood’s most famous restaurants is the tapas bar, Quimet i Quimet. The bar is small and locals can often be seen pouring out of the doors with a drink and plate in hand—the atmosphere is lively and the prices reasonable. Yet, alongside the many long-standing establishments, there is a continual stream of new restaurants specializing in cuisine from around the world popping up throughout Poble-sec.  

On the way up to Montjuïc, just off a tree-lined street, you will find Plaça del Sortidor, which is the central square of Poble-sec. One popular restaurant, El Sortidor, has been there since 1908. It used to supply ice to the village of Poble-sec before homes had refrigerators. Even the young Joan Manuel Serrat frequented El Sortidor to purchase ice for his family. Today, the restaurant serves a mixture of Catalan, Spanish and Italian food and offers an inexpensive menu. The original refrigerators can still be seen inside, and outside you’ll find a plaque from the City Council which states, "En reconeixement als seus anys de servei a la ciutat."—In recognition of its years of service to the city.

Poble-sec is very accessible, being well connected via several transport links, and within close proximity of three metro stations—Paraŀlel, Poble Sec and Espanya. The 758 meter-long Funicular de Montjuïc departs from Paraŀlel station and was originally opened in 1928 for the International Exhibition the following year. The funicular was reconstructed in 1992 for the Summer Olympics when Barcelona moved into the world spotlight.

Buildings erected in the early 19th century still stand strong in Poble-sec beside the neighborhood's more modern counterparts. On an average day, elderly Catalan people mingle with immigrants from Italy as car stereos play Pakistani music, all serving as a constant reminder of the vast history and new face of one of Barcelona’s oldest barris.

Published February 2013, updated January 21, 2023.