Fogassa de Carabassa: A Valencian Tots Sants Tradition

Throughout Spain, a multitude of traditional dishes are eagerly anticipated as All Saints' Day nears—especially sweet recipes. Each community, province or locality has its own recipes handed down for generations. Here in Catalunya panellets are lovingly made in kitchens across the comunitat and bought by the dozens in panaderías. In Andalucía and other parts of southern Spain pestiños are favorites at this time of year, along with la poleá or gachas de leche, and los huesos de santo and buñuelos de viento are popular everywhere.

Another less well-known All Saints' Day treat is the fogassa de carabassa (roughly translates as pumpkin bread) from la Comunitat Valenciana. There is even an expression in Valencià that alludes to it: "Per a tots sants, fogassa. Ja ve l'hivern." (For All Saints' Day, fogassa. Winter is coming).

This sweet treat is not really a cake or a coca. It's more like a sweet brioche bread with raisins and nuts. It get its characteristic orange color from the addition of pumpkin (squash or sweet potato can also be used).

This Valencian dessert is a yeast-risen dough, so it takes time to prepare but it's well worth it. I find both it's texture and flavor akin to panettone which is also flavored with the dried fruit and nuts. It makes a lovely breakfast bread not just on All Saints', but any time of year.

INGREDIENTS

• 250 g roasted pumpkin or squash
• 700 g  bread flour
• 1 tsp salt (5 g)
• 200 ml lukewarm milk
• 25 g fresh yeast
• 3 large eggs
• 250 g sugar, divided
• 60 ml mild extra virgin olive oil*
• 2 Tbsp anise seeds (Not a fan? Omit—see notes below)
• 80 g raisins
• rum for soaking raisins (optional)
• 80 g raw walnuts
• 80 g raw almonds

METHOD

1. Cook the pumpkin, peel and mash with a fork. Place in a fine mesh colander over a bowl to allow the excess liquid to drain.
2. Measure out the flour, whisk in the salt and set aside.
3. In a small bowl, whisk the yeast into the lukewarm milk and set aside.
4. With a hand mixer or stand mixer beat the eggs and 150 grams of sugar in a large mixing bowl until lightened in color. Add the olive oil and mix well.
5. With the mixer running, add the pumpkin a spoonful at a time until blended and then mix in the milk and yeast mixture and anise seeds.
6. With the mixer still on, add the flour one spoonful at a time incorporating all the flour before adding more. The dough will be thick and sticky.
7. Once the flour has been incorporated, fold in the raisins with a rubber spatula.
8. Place dough in a large bowl lightly coated with olive oil. Cover with a clean, damp dish cloth or plastic wrap and place in a warm area away from drafts. Allow the dough to rise until doubled in size—about two hours, depending on how warm your kitchen is.
9. Once the dough has doubled, punch it down and spread it into a 26 x 36 cm (10 x 14 in) baking pan that has been lightly oiled. Decorate the top with the almonds and walnuts and then sprinkle with the remaining 100 g of sugar.
10. Cover again and allow to rise until doubled in size—about 45 minutes to one hour and a half.
11. Preheat oven to 180°C (350°F).
12. Once the dough has finished rising, bake for 20 to 25 minutes.
13. Allow to cool completely in the pan on a wire rack before cutting. Enjoy!

Notes

So many sweets in Spain include anise seeds or anise flavoring, but I'm not a fan. If you're not either, you can just leave them out. In place of anise seeds I added lemon zest and a teaspoon of vanilla.

I also think this tasty bread would be even better with more raisins and more nuts on top.

*Does it Matter What Kind of Olive Oil?

Yes. For everyday cooking I like the strong, earthy and intense flavors of picual olive oil. But the picual variety would overpower the delicate flavors in this cake. For baking, I recommend a fruity and light extra virgin arbequina olive oil.