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Recipe: Esqueixada de bacallà

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Esqueixada de bacallà (shredded cod) is one of the most typical fresh summer dishes in Catalan gastronomy. Its ingredients are simple: tomato, onion, desalinated cod, black olives and extra virgin olive oil. The star of this chilled dish is, of course, the cod. And, unsurprisingly, fresh, good quality ingredients are key to success.

While most supermarkets will have the ingredients you need, I highly recommend that you head straight for your neighborhood market when shopping for this dish—even if the market isn't in your usual rounds, it's well worth the trip.

First, the Cod

When selecting cod, you're safest bet is to buy from a trusted peixateria (fish shop) that specializes in salt cod, because in a salad like this there are no sauces to dress up a low quality cut. The llom (loin) is the best part—and also the most expensive. But many shops will sell packages prepared especially for esqueixada. These are usually the odds and ends that are trimmed off when preparing the more expensive cuts, and are often sold already desalinated.

Most supermarkets do sell cod marked as "bacallà a punt de sal" (or "bacalao a punto de sal" in Spanish) but don't be fooled. This is not the salt-cured cod you're looking for, but rather fresh cod that has been injected with salt and water. For this recipe, it's the salt-cured cod you need. If you're not sure exactly what you're looking for, or are feeling intimidated by the unfamiliarity of it all, seek the advice of a vendor specializing in salt cod. They are usually more than happy to help you in your culinary journey. It helps if you go at off-peak hours when things aren't too hectic and the vendor has more time to answer your questions.

Everything Else

When selecting olives, look for black "empeltre" olives from Aragón. Empeltre is the variety of olive and you'll find them sold under the well-known Espinaler and Marchenica brands. If those aren't available, you'll want to look for brined olives (no vinegar or chemicals added) that are sold in only a small amount of liquid. Better yet, your local olive vendor will be invaluable in helping you select the right olives—and you have the added benefit of being able to sample them before you buy.

For tomatoes, it's up to you. Many recipes call for Roma tomatoes because they aren't as juicy as other varieties, but I think your best bet is to buy the loveliest, most aromatic tomatoes you find.

Same with onions—how much and what type is entirely up to you. I like to use either the sweet and mild ceba tendre or red onions. If the onions you've selected are too strong, you can do a "quick pickle" and significantly decrease their bite. Just slice them thinly, and soak them in a mixture of half water and half white wine vinegar. I love pickled onions, but they aren't to everyone's taste, so I usually serve the onions on the side.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

  1. Prepare the desalinated cod by shredding it by hand. It doesn't have to be perfect, but try to get the pieces more or less the same size. Make sure there is no skin or bones in the fish. Once shredded, refrigerate it while preparing the rest of the salad.
  2. Prepare your tomatoes. If you like a chunky salad, simply chop them to your preferred size. But, if you'd like something more like a fresh tomato sauce, grate the tomato flesh without the peel. Then, to keep your salad from getting watery, drain the prepared tomatoes in a fine mesh strainer for about 15 minutes. Once drained, mix the tomatoes, olive oil and salt together and set aside in the refrigerator.
  3. Thinly slice the onion vertically—top to bottom, not across. If you want to "quick pickle" them as mentioned above, do that now. If not, just put them in a dish with ice water and set aside.
  4. Assemble the salad. Esqueixada is best when very cold, so it should have at least a couple of hours in the fridge before serving. Some people like to mix the cod and tomatoes together, but I like to layer everything. First, place the tomatoes in a shallow dish, top with the shredded cod, then the olives and the onion. Finally, drizzle a bit of olive oil over the top and season with fresh cracked black pepper. If you're serving the dish the next day, wait to assemble the salad until just before you're ready to serve it.

Esqueixada is an emblematic dish of the region and is part of the Catalan culinary identity. It's perfect to share at family gatherings, dinners with friends or any special occasion.

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