Bistrot Levante

Levante is an exciting new edition to Placeta de Manuel Ribé, in the heart of El Call, Barcelona’s ancient Jewish Quarter. Chicly designed by Emiliano Armani, with low-hanging lights, marble table tops and palm fronds, expansive windows into the main dining area draw the attention of passers-by as they walk down the narrow, medieval lane of Carrer de Sant Domènec del Call. Light and flavoursome cuisine, inspired by the Levant region in the Eastern Mediterranean, is prepared and plated elegantly, and served in an environment that invites you to stay for hours.

With food served throughout the day, things get off to a delicious start with brunch, which includes freshly baked pastries and cakes, and sweet and savoury yoghurts—the tomato and dill with spiced carrot and turmeric yoghurt served with toasted pumpernickel bread will likely be a first for most diners, but is a pleasant surprise. Brunch continues with Lebanese-style poached eggs with toasted chickpeas and spelt, a dish of spicy shakshuka with baked eggs, and a plate of toasted rye bread with smoked mackerel and crème fraîche. The midday menu follows, featuring roasted beetroot salad, chicken gyros, and other plates priced between €7 and €10. 

In the evening, the kitchen switches once again, this time to a short but sweet menu of meze: a selection of eight small sharing dishes. Accompanied by two friends, we ordered six plates—and a bottle of the splendid Mas Candí Brut Nature cava—and were sated and content without being overfull. Chef Nick Hosea’s food is light and delicate, with expert use of seasoning and spices that please the taste buds without leaning on added fat or meat, a common kitchen crutch. Of the eight evening meze plates, six are vegetarian. 

The roasted sweet potatoes with charred Brussels sprouts, toasted thyme and candied ginger are superb. The Brussels sprouts, cooked beautifully and seasoned to their core, were seared on one side on a hot grill, laid atop equally charred wedges of tender sweet potato and dotted with jewel-like pomegranate seeds that played a lovely, sweet complement to the savoury vegetables. 

Another of my favourites, and perhaps the most simple dish of them all, was the hummus, creamy-smooth and topped with miniscule rounds of ripe kumquat, a citrus I just love. The hummus is also topped with sumac, as is the warm and puffy pitta bread, dressed lightly in olive oil and so good that I have returned to Levante many times already just to eat these little triangles of doughy goodness. Still new to the neighbourhood but already drawing crowds, dinner reservations—especially on the weekends—are highly recommended. 

Bistrot Levante. Placeta de Manuel Ribé 1. T. 93 858 2679. Mon-Tues Closed. Wed-Fri 9am-12am. Sat-Sun 10.30am-12am