Quick Bites: Big Kokka

The vibrant and bold interior design by Clara Arnús and the fusion of Peruvian and Japanese cuisine by chefs Juan Otivo and Kyoko Li, work in perfect harmony at Big Kokka, the newest venture by the popular Barcelona restaurant group Grupo San Telmo. Located in the still-lavish setting of the former Big Fish restaurant, Big Kokka’s name serves as a homage to its predecessor, as well as an indicator that this is the fully-grown version of Kokka, Grupo San Telmo’s Japanese-Peruvian bar located in the basement of Restaurante Palo Santo on Carrer d’Avinyó. 

The food at Big Kokka is Nikkei cuisine in the true sense of the word. This isn’t merely a menu with a selection of sushi and ceviche; chefs Otivo and Li combine the techniques, ingredients and flavour of their homelands all within the same dish—the essence of Nikkei cooking. The charred edamame served with grilled choclo corn is a perfect, finger-licking starter, as is the chicken causa, a traditional potato purée with yellow chilli and lime, topped with braised chicken and huacatay, a potent herb also known as Peruvian black mint. 

The menu features eight different nigiris—both traditional and Nikkei-style—as well as stir-fried noodles and rice, uramakis, and a selection from the raw bar (don’t miss the ‘Nikkei Oyster’ with yuzu vinaigrette, chilli and coriander). The more substantial plates are cooked on the traditional robata-style Japanese grill, such as the melt-in-your-mouth aubergine with yellow miso and bonito flakes, and the succulent Wagyu beef served with Andean mustards. 

At Big Kokka, the pisco sours flow freely in both their classic form and in modern interpretations such as the ‘Big Kokka Pisco’, made with lemongrass, tonka beans and Sichuan peppercorns. World-renowned, award-winning mixologist Manel Vehí has crafted a list of 10 signature cocktails for Big Kokka, designed to complement the bold flavours of Nikkei fusion. The midday menu at Big Kokka is €16 and offers a choice of some of their most popular starters and the option of four main courses; either the meat or fish of the day grilled on the robata, the uramaki roll of the day, or an assortment of nigiris and makis (€6 supplement).

Big Kokka. Passatge Mercantil,1. T. 938552304. Mon-Sun 1pm-11.30pm.