Kaiku

As the summer season approaches, so does the season of beachside lunching on lazy weekend afternoons. There are countless options (many of which I have yet to try), both traditional and modern, for seafood and rice along the busy waterfront strip of the Barceloneta, but this month I revisited a classic that I have always loved: Kaiku.

Just a dozen metres from the beach, the terrace of Kaiku is easily missed in the bustling Plaça del Mar. Almost always fully-booked, especially on the weekends, the simple array of tables and umbrellas under the shade of swaying palms is one of the best places, in my opinion, to enjoy a paella within sight of the water.

This isn’t your classic paella—the chefs of Kaiku add a little flair and flavour to their handful of rice dishes with the help of wood smoke. These smoked rices come in the typical marinero variety, as well as with octopus, pork ribs, squid ink, artichokes and more.

Much of the produce served by Kaiku comes from its own gardens, and the fish is sourced from the Barceloneta pier, just 200 metres away. The menu isn’t huge, but there are more than enough options to make anyone happy who is looking for a satisfying lunch in the sun that isn’t over-priced or touristy. The salads and other starters, particularly the duck ham salad with berry vinaigrette, are ideal warm-ups to the rice, which is the true main event. 

Kaiku does have some larger plates of sautéed fish or grilled meat, but I have yet to try them, as those smoky bits of crispy rice stuck to the bottom of the paella pan always call my name the loudest. Make sure you call ahead, otherwise you might be out of luck, or at least show up right at 1pm when the restaurant opens and try to score a table. A view of the Mediterranean in the shade of palm fronds, a bottle of local white wine on ice and an excellent paella for under €20 per portion—it doesn’t get much better than that.

Kaiku. Plaça del Mar 1. T. 93 221 9082. Open Tues-Sun 1pm-3.30pm. Closed Monday.