Autumn Wine Escapes
Catalan wine is known for its unique personality. The Mediterranean grape varieties used here, coupled with the warm climate, tend to produce wines that are high in alcohol and enjoyed for their full-bodied flavour. Aside from the excellent wine, many of the best vineyards in Catalunya are located in outstandingly beautiful areas and housed in buildings that ooze history and character. We’ve chosen four of the best for an autumnal tasting trip.
The Empordà is a vast golden plain northeast of Barcelona in the Girona province, renowned for its extensive grapevines, which are fed by a soil rich in granite and lime. Right in the middle, you can find the imposing fortress of Castell de Peralada, whose striking twin towers have become synonymous with quality wine. There are records of winemaking taking place at this medieval castle since it was first built hundreds of years ago, and so, naturally, the vineyards surrounding the ancient structure have had plenty of practice at producing a decent bottle. The production process combines traditional techniques cultivated over centuries, with cutting edge winemaking technology. The castle offers excellent guided tours around the vineyards and bodegas, complete with tastings. The on-site monastery also houses the Wine Museum, a historical collection showcasing the development of winemaking through the ages.
There are a number of tour options available. A tour of the castle museum plus a tasting of four wines costs €15 per person and lasts an hour and a half. Alternatively, make a day of it and splash out €35 for the five-hour Wine Spa experience, which includes a two-hour thermal circuit. The on-site farm, Finca Malaveïn, also offers a traditional breakfast: bread with tomato and locally-produced sausages accompanied by a glass of Peralada wine for €15 per person.
Tel. +34 972 538 503 | +34 972 538 011 visitas@castilloperelada.com
Located on a plateau near the sea, Alt Penedès is a privileged region, protected by rolling hills and mountains, and blessed by the mild climate of the Mediterranean coast. Its permeable soil, rich in phosphorus, makes this ideal grape-growing land. It is also the birthplace of cava. The town of Sant Sadurní d'Anoia began producing the sparkling wine in 1872, using the traditional Penedès grape varieties Macabeo, Xarel·lo and Parellada. Since then, the cava-producing sector has become the most successful in the Catalan wine industry. There are 80 wineries around Sant Sadurní d'Anoia, which produce 70 percent of Spanish sparkling wine.
One of the best known cava producers—and the oldest family business in Spain—is Codorníu, owned by a family of winegrowers dating back to the 16th century. Guided tours allow the visitor a comprehensive view of the whole vineyard, including the expansion designed by architect Josep Puig i Cadafalch, a contemporary of Antoni Gaudí, in 1895. His stunning Art Nouveau building, with vaulted arches and stained glass windows, was declared a Historical Artistic Monument in 1976.
The best part of the Codorníu tour takes place underground in the labyrinth of cellars. Here, ageing at a constant temperature, the cavas undergo their second fermentation. A miniature train takes you around the cellar as you discover traditional cava-making machinery and the history and heritage of the Codorníu family.
Guided tours cost €12 per head for adults, and €8 for children aged eight-17. Younger children can take the tour for free. The tour includes tastings of two cavas from Codorníu’s premium range.
Tel: +34 938 913 342 reservas@codorniu.com
The Priorat is a small area of black hills clustered around the town of Gratallops, and it is here that, for over eight centuries, a deep red wine known for its intense taste has been produced. Considered by many to be among Catalunya’s finest wines, the richness of flavor comes in part from the mineral-rich slate-and-quartzite soil (known as llicorella). Carthusian monks began to cultivate the region's first vines in 1095. These are grown on terraced slopes, which contribute to the area’s unique aesthetic as well as making for back-breaking manual work. The Priorat has enjoyed a rebirth over the last few decades and the new Priorat has gained a strong international reputation.
Definitely worth a visit is the Torres Priorat vineyard, ‘La Solteta’, in the town of Lloar. This modern, environmentally-friendly winery was designed by the architect Miquel Espinet and is equipped with solar and photovoltaic panel systems, ensuring a high percentage of renewable energy consumption. The Torres family, with a history of successful winemaking behind them, began planting on the llicorella slopes in 1996. They have 100 hectares and sell two wines under the Prioriat label: Salmos and Perpetual, using a combination of traditional techniques alongside modern innovation.
Guided tours last for an hour and a half, complete with wine tasting (€12 for one wine or €17 for two). They also offer a wine and chocolate pairing for groups of four to ten. Pre-booking is required, with at least two days notice.
Tel: +34 678 192 095 torrespriorat@torres.es
The region of Terra Alta is the highest winemaking region in Catalunya. It’s also the D.O. that’s furthest inland, boasting rich chalk-based soil, and a cultural history that predates Roman occupation.
This particular geography produces full-bodied red wines with a freshness fostered by the height of the vines. The red grape varieties here are mostly Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah with small amounts of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Morenillo. Similar to Pinot Noir, Morenillo exists only in this small region.
Owned and run by two generations of the Ferré family, Celler Mas Vicenç is a five-generation-old family winery, which exudes enthusiasm and passion for the local wine culture. Its award-winning wines are superb and you get to sample them all, along with some olives and cheese, during a 75-minute tour of the vineyard at a very reasonable €6 for adults, while accompanying children can visit for free. The vineyard also offers a program of regular themed activities, including a chocolate and wine tasting at €15 per head, a ‘walk and wine’ hike (€22 for adults, €12 for children aged 6-18 years), and Vi tour Tarragona, a guided tour of the historic sites and winemaking history of the nearby city, ending with a stop at Cellar Mas Vicenç to taste some seriously good wine.
Tel: +34 977 630 024 xavier@masvicens.com