Ribera d'Ebre
Over the river and through the woods...
La Ribera d’Ebre is one of the four comarques that make up the area known as the Terres de l’Ebre in the south of Catalunya. Its name comes from the Ebre (also referred to as Ebro) river, which enters La Ribera from the west and forms its backbone. The comarca boasts stunning scenery and many high points — including the Serra de Berrús, Rovelló and the Serra de Cardó — which provide panoramic views over the river, valleys and surrounding forests.
The Ebre river has always been a valuable resource and attracted settlers from prehistoric, Iberian and Roman times to the Moorish era and the Middle Ages. It has also been witness to great tragedies recently, most notably during the Spanish Civil War when many lives were lost in the Battle of the Ebro.
Today, in some towns people still make their living by working out in the orchards and almond and olive groves, weaving baskets from reeds and palms or crafting ceramics by hand. But the region has always changed with the times. Now power stations and hydroelectric and electrochemical industries provide many with a source of income.
SITES
The region’s most famous landmark is the magnificent Castell de Miravet, which stands on a rocky hilltop in the south, above the west bank of the Ebre. The castle is Moorish in origin and dates back to the ninth century. In the 12th century, it became the property of the Knights Templar who extended the original construction and turned it into a regional command center.
Just below the castle lies the town of Miravet, which also has Moorish roots and a few sites worth visiting. The old stone houses that line the narrow streets, the Aljama (the former Judeo-Muslim quarter) and the old Baroque church are among the most representative. From Miravet, the easiest way to travel to the other side of the Ebre is by taking the ferry across the river. Once on the eastern side heading away from the river you’ll hit Tivissa. This small town has a lovely historic center with some remains of the original medieval walls, the old entrance (Portal de l’Era) and the Església de Sant Jaume.
On the way there, however, is an interesting archaeological site: Castellet de Banyoles. This Iberian settlement from the fourth century BCE is situated on a plateau overlooking the river; three of its areas have been excavated, including pentagonal towers at the entrance and living spaces.
Heading north leads to Móra la Nova, where an arched bridge crosses the Ebre to the regional capital Móra d’Ebre. In the Middle Ages, like other towns in the region, Móra d’Ebre was home to many Moriscos (Muslims converted to Christianity) as well as Christians and Jews. Places to visit there include the partially-ruined Moorish castle and the 19th-century Convent de les Mínimes.
EXCURSIONS
One of the best ways to explore the county is by following the hiking routes that cross many areas of natural beauty. One of the most challenging itineraries is the Ruta del Teix, which runs for almost 18 kilometers along the PR-80 in the south of the comarca and features ancient yew trees, a Bronze Age settlement, a spring, caves and woodlands. The Camí de Sirga (Tow Path) follows in the footsteps of the men who used to tow their loads along the river from its banks and takes in some charming traditional villages, as well as historic monuments.
For classical rock climbing, there are around 200 routes in the limestone peaks above Tivissa. Complete beginners might like to try climbing on a via ferrata, where cables and steps have been built into the rocks for added security. Water sports like canoeing, kayaking and sailing can be enjoyed on parts of the Ebre and the Pantà de Riba-roja is also a popular spot for fishing.
EATS
Savory dishes range from grilled or roasted meats and Catalan classics like escalivada to more inventive creations like clotxa, a piece of hollowed out bread stuffed with sardines and roasted vegetables.
The region is probably best known for its soft fruits like cherries and peaches. Locally grown produce makes for popular pastries such as cherry cake, fig bread, capsetes (almond cakes) and heavier offerings like sweet pastissets filled with cabello de ángel and flavored with anise. Regular and fortified wine and olive oil are also part of the local output.
This text was adapted from an article that appeared in Barcelona Metropolitan in 2009.