Castellet i la Gornal

Few non-locals have heard of Castellet i la Gornal, a small municipality about an hour’s drive from Barcelona, but there’s much to enjoy here on a day trip. To the south is the serene backdrop of the Foix Reservoir, a teeming birdlife sanctuary. To the north and west are the vine-peppered hills of the Alt Penedés, rising towards the dramatic curtain of the Montmell Mountains. Perched on a limestone bluff between these two distinct landscapes is the bucolic ancient village of Castellet. Approaching from the direction of Vilanova i la Geltrú, it’s a 14-kilometre drive up the meandering Foix River.

Sant Esteve Castle

Castellet is handsomely dominated by the turrets of one of the finest castles in the province of Tarragona, the Castell de Sant Esteve. During the early period of the Christian Reconquest (around 10th Century), this fortress formed part of the Marca Hispánica, a vast belt of castles ranging from Asturias to the northern Mediterranean, whose objective was to curtail the attacks of Moorish invaders. Reduced to little more than a ghostly ruin by the start of the 20th century, the castle was fortunate enough to attract the attention of Josep de Peray i March, a rich philanthropist, politician and amateur architect from Barcelona. Caught up in the nostalgic spirit of the time, when the Catalan bourgeoisie was captivated by all things medieval, March undertook a painstaking restoration project for the castle, adding a few modernista flourishes of his own to the interior. Free guided tours (in Catalan) are offered at the weekend between 10:00 and 14:00. Phone 93 814 45 06 to reserve. 

Foix Natural Park

Located inland from the estuary of the same name, the Foix Reservoir was constructed at the start of the 20th century, storing water for the irrigation of the Penedès vineyards. It has since become an important biosphere reserve, with over 200 bird species congregating here throughout the year. Even without a pair of binoculars it’s easy to spot majestic grey herons or great cormorants skirting over the surface of the reservoir, or moorhens picking about for algae and seeds in the shallows. Meanwhile, the banks of the reservoir teem with golden plovers, great weed warblers and kingfishers. Walking routes along the banks of the reservoir can be easily accessed from Castellet’s car park.  

Lunch at El Barretet

A short walk from the castle at the entrance to the village is El Barretet, a local institution. The walls are festooned with photos of visiting celebrities and decorative headgear—the restaurant’s name means "the little hat." The menu offers modern fare, such as lobster cannelloni and shrimp carpaccio, at affordable prices, and there is a lovely shaded terrace overlooking the reservoir for al fresco dining. Book in advance (93 102 22 69), El Barretet gets extremely busy on weekends. 

Getting to Castellet

If you have your own wheels, follow the C-32 to Vilanova i la Geltru, before taking the BV-1225 north along the edge of the reservoir. Alternatively, take the R4 train from Sants to the pretty town of L’Arboç. From here, it’s a 10-minute taxi ride to Castellet.