36 hours in Madrid
DAY 1
Get your bearings in the city’s old town, known as Habsburg Madrid. Puerta del Sol (metro Sol) is your starting point, and despite not being the most beautiful of Madrid’s many plazas, it is a bustling centre of public life with its constant stream of friends and families. This is the site of kilometre zero—marked by a plaque in the ground—which is the symbolic centre of Spain. From here, head down Calle Mayor to Plaza Mayor. This ornate square was planned by Felipe II, the monarch who made Madrid the country’s capital, and finalised in 1619, by Felipe III, whose statue stands in the middle of the plaza. The square was once the site of the faith trials and executions of the Inquisition as well as coronations, festivals, demonstrations and plays. Next up, the Market of San Miguel (Mercado de San Miguel) ticks the boxes of both historic landmark and refreshment pitstop. This striking building dates from 1916, and has an elaborate iron structure—the only one of its kind left in Madrid. The site was originally home to an outdoor produce market, but now the food is slightly more refined, focusing mainly on upmarket tapas. Carry on along Calle Mayor to Plaza de la Villa, one of the oldest plazas in Madrid. Among its mish-mash of architectural styles is the 15th-century Torre de los Lujanes.
Following such a busy day, it's time to let your hair down. Madrid's undeniable nightlife spot is the barrio of Malasaña
After all this walking you’ll be in need of some lunch. Now’s the perfect moment to dive into one of Madrid’s authentic (if slightly seedy-looking) bars to order a hometown specialty—the calamari sandwich. After getting your strength up it’s time to tackle the Royal Palace of Madrid. Built between the years of 1738 and 1755, this grandiose edifice is famed as the biggest palace in Europe by floor size. Following such a busy day, it’s time to let your hair down. Madrid’s undeniable nightlife hotspot is the alternative barrio of Malasaña. Get off the metro at Noviciado and wander the narrow streets that are packed with bars, restaurants and cafes and see what you stumble across. For a more specific destination, Ojalá (San Andrés 1) is a good place to head for. This kooky bar-restaurant serves up a range of tapas, burgers and cocktails and even has its own beach. Continue the night at Vía Láctea (Velarde 18), an emblematic spot that encapsulates the neighbourhood’s alternative, rocker vibe, or Siroco (San Dimas 3), a haven for live music. Finish off the night at Chocolatería San Ginés (Pasadizo de San Gines 5), a chocolate cafe that opened in 1894, and has become a classic pitstop for some late night churros. It’s open 24 hours to cater to the post-party crowd.
DAY 2
Start the day with a restorative breakfast at Jardín de Salvador Bachiller (Montera 37) where the decadent three-course brunch will set you up for the day. It’s now time to decide what type of tourist you really are, a shopper or a culture vulture. The shoppers will want to head to El Rastro, Madrid’s famous flea market held every Sunday from 9am to 3pm. The whopping 3,500 stalls cover the area in and around Plaza de Cascorro and are a treasure trove of curiosities. The more high-brow among you should head towards the Golden Triangle of Art, which is made up of Madrid’s three most important art museums. The giant of these three is the Prado (Paseo del Prado). Founded in 1819, Spain’s main national art museum houses works from the 12th to the early 20th century and includes names such as Francisco de Goya and Diego Velázquez. If your tastes are less traditional then you might prefer the Reina Sofia Museum (Santa Isabel 52), which focusses on 20th-century modern art, or the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum (Paseo del Prado 8), which includes works of Impressionism and Expressionism. On the way to these museums be sure to pass by the imposing buildings of the Cervantes Institute and the Banco de España (Calle de Alcalá), as well as the lavish Plaza de Cibeles. Take an afternoon stroll around Retiro Park, Madrid’s epic green lung that dates back to the 1500s. Until the 19th century the park belonged to the Spanish Monarchy, so it’s no coincidence that the tree-lined avenues and plethora of sculptures have such a regal feel to them.
After an action-packed weekend it’s time to hot foot it back to the train station or airport and head for home.