Streetlife: Carrer del Portal Nou
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Lolita Bakery
For seven years, Lolita Bakery has been a beloved mainstay on Portal Nou, offering up a variety of American-style sweet treats. According to cake-maker Eugenia, not much has changed in that time, at least in the delicious and creative cakes they make, although Lolita has recently changed from a table service pastelería, to a made-to-order business. “We decided it was the best way forward. Before, people mostly ordered to collect, and we didn’t have a lot of demand for table service.” The bakery has also seen a change in product demand: their famous cupcakes used to be the favourite order, now it’s a bit of everything. “I have couples in here every day wanting to talk about wedding cakes, for example. And now I have the space for a big wooden table where I can show them samples and find them the perfect cake for their big day.”
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Enjoy Vegan
Just off Plaça de Sant Augustí Vell, tucked under the porticoes that line one side of the street, Enjoy Vegan is a small, inviting space that specialises in takeaway. “We have around a 50 percent mix of tourists and locals. Some people come a long way just to have a good vegan meal,” said waiter Alex. “They appreciate the healthy and full-flavoured taste of robust vegan cooking.” Some have a hard time believing their bestsellers, such as the lasagna or chocolate cake, are vegan. “It’s always nice when non-vegans realise how good vegan food can be,” Alex laughed.
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Pony Café
Pony Café has earned a reputation on the street as the hip place to have a beer. “It can get pretty busy. People spill out onto the street, but we cram them back in,” laughed Eva, the barmaid, whose brother opened Pony 11 years ago. The clientele is young, the craft beer is flowing, and the decoration is somewhat edgy: a deformed cherub doll stares out from behind the bar and a poster of the film Freaks (1932) takes up one wall. What makes Pony stand out? “People tell us we have good taste in music, they seem to like our playlists,” revealed Eva. And what makes Pony fit in on Portal Nou? “There's a little bit of an alternative vibe here. We love the tattoo parlour up the road, for instance. We all get on well.”
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Galería Maxó
An atmospheric space bursting with life, colour and energy, walking into Galería Maxó is a little like stepping into Geppetto’s workshop, especially in the back space, where there is an actual toy-making room. Opened by Argentinian artist Max Rennella in 2009, the gallery walls are covered with framed 3D artwork, and the shelves are lined with metallic figurines, which look like they're from another era but were, in fact, made in-house. An electric train whizzes overhead on a track that circulates the whole room. “It’s magical,” said Sara, a customer visiting from Denmark. “I want to buy something, but everything is so pretty I can’t choose!”
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Hello Mario
Mario is originally from a tiny town in Portugal, but there's nothing quiet about the friendly young man who owns and runs this brightly coloured boutique full of trendy clothes, handmade accessories and art. “I've done a lot of different things in my life,” he smiled. “I studied engineering, I was in a band...I’m always looking for a new challenge.” His latest was to open up his own business, but he also wanted to create a space where he could express himself. “I’m the sort of person that always engages, makes recommendations, gives opinions. Over the years, people have complimented my tastes, so I decided to open a place that sold interesting things that I like, as well as products made by friends.” Mario points to a colourful felt wall-hanging that was made by an artist neighbour in Portugal, and then picks up a small leather wallet. “I made this myself,” he said proudly, explaining that this is his first handmade product for sale, but that he eventually wants to make more.