Festive Fun in the City, Barcelona at Christmas

Photo by Paula Jaume courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0)

1. Away In a Manger: Start Your Own Pessebre

Many Catalan homes have a pessebre (nativity) that is lovingly curated and added to each year, and the traditional scene is also depicted in various locations around town. From the end of November until the beginning of January, Plaça Sant Jaume offers its own modern twist on it, while the Associació de Pessebristes de Barcelona presents its diorama at the Museu Frederic Marès. If you fancy making one yourself, the Santa Llúcia Christmas Market is well-stocked with all the materials and decorations necessary, including the all-important caganer—a defecating figurine that adorns all Catalan nativity scenes.

Detail of a scene in the traditional pessebre at the Museu Frederic Marès. Photo by Helena Martorell courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).

2. Wonderful Christmas Time: Handmade Goodies

Prepare for the festive feasts by sharpening your kitchen skills. On December 13th Cooking Area offers an evening Christmas tapas course where you'll learn to make—and taste!—monkfish croquetas, red shrimp brioche and more, or try your hand at making the popular tortell de reis (kings' cake) at Centre Cívic Vil·la Urània on December 15th and the 18th. For the younger family members, the Centre Cívic el Coll will hold a family-friendly workshop to make and decorate gingerbread cookies on December 15th, and on the 16th the Centre Cívic La Cadena has a workshop on making creative Christmas chocolates.

The city's markets are abuzz with holiday activities as well. Head over to the Mercat de Galvany on December 22nd and 29th for a demonstration of how to make neules (those delicate rolled cookies) and on December 24th indulge in hot chocolate with xurros at Mercat del Carmel. If crafting is more your thing, bring the kids along to the Centre Cívic Sant Martí on December 19th for a workshop on how to make Christmas decorations from wool and then on the 21st the youth center at the Centre Cívic El Coll - La Bruguera hosts a handmade holiday decorations workshop.

Every year a giant Christmas tree is placed in Plaça de Sant Jaume. Photo by Martí Petit courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).

3. Deck The Halls: Decorate Your Tree

While the Christmas tree is still a relatively new tradition in Spain, each year it is becoming more popular. The Sagrada Família and Santa Llúcia Christmas markets are bursting with evergreen trees, and most garden centers outside the city also stock them. If you don’t fancy a floor full of pine needles, visit Plantasymas in Sarrià for an artificial tree as good as the real thing. In the city center, Christmas lights bring some cheer to the main thoroughfares, as well as building facades on Passeig de Gràcia and Portal de l’Àngel. You can catch them lit up in all their glory from November 23rd to January 6th, Sunday through Thursday at 17:30-22:00 and on December 31st, January 5th and Fridays and Saturdays 17:30-1:00.

You can buy a caga tió at most Christmas markets in Catalunya. Photo by Vicente Zambrano González courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).

4. Caga Tió: No Home is Complete Without One

Beating a decorated log until it defecates gifts may sound strange, but the gift-bearing Christmas log—el tió de nadal—is a common figure in Catalan folklore. In homes across Catalunya, the tió is given a little bit to "eat" every night in the days leading up to Christmas Eve. If well looked after, the log will deliver sweets, nuts and turrones (nougat) when beaten with a stick while singing a traditional song that begins with the imperative, "caga tió!" ("shit log!"). You can buy your tió at most Christmas markets, and for a larger-than-life experience children under 12 can hit the giant tió at the Santa Llucía Christmas market until it "delivers" presents and excrement excitement.

King Balthazar arrives in Barcelona, photo by Marc Lozano courtesy of Ajuntament de Barcelona (CC BY-NC-ND 4.0).

5. Welcome the Three Kings

On January 5th at 18:00, the Three Kings arrive in Barcelona by boat. They dock at Port Vell and make their way across the city in a vivid parade of music, dancing, bright costumes and uniquely decorated floats. Enjoy the spectacle from the sidelines and be ready to catch the sweets that are thrown into the crowd. In preparation for the kings’ arrival, head to the Three Kings Toy Factory at the Fàbrica de Creació Fabra i Coats from December 27th to January 4th for a behind-the-scenes look at how the kings make all their toys. 

Updated December 1, 2023.

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