Barcelona's Historic Places: Built from the Grave

The most tragic moment for the Jewish community of Barcelona occurred long before the expulsion of its people by the Catholic monarchs in 1492. In 1391, the city’s Jewish quarter, El Call, was attacked. Many of the 4,000 inhabitants were killed, and those who survived were forced to flee or convert to Christianity, marking a tragic end to the historic neighborhood. Despite this attempt to eradicate Judaism from the city, some vestiges have managed to survive outside of the former Jewish district.

One of the surprising remnants can be seen on the walls of the Palau del Lloctinent, situated between Plaça de Sant Iu and Plaça del Rei in the Gothic Quarter. Constructed in the mid-16th century, by order of Emperor Charles V, some of the stones used on the building’s facade have visible Hebrew inscriptions on them. They are tombstones from the former Jewish cemetery on Montjuïc. Once the cemetery was abandoned, material was taken from the site for use in construction. When the Jewish community disappeared, some members left behind debts, which their creditors demanded to collect. According to historian Jordi Casanova, the tombstones were highly valued as construction material, and since the cemetery was on royal property, the king allowed their use as payment for services and debts.

The inscribed stones are best observed on the side of the converted palace that overlooks Plaça de Sant Iu, where street musicians often play. There are at least 10 stones from the old Jewish cemetery, many of which are located near the railing of the staircase. They’re not whole tombstones, rather fragments cut out to fit the walls, and it is for this reason that little meaning can be deciphered from the inscriptions. On some of the blocks the Hebrew writing is even upside down, a sign that the stone was treated as mere building material. In one of the best-preserved inscriptions the words "duel," "lament" and "Yosef" have been detected, however it’s still a mystery who these tombstones belonged to or what relevant historical connections they may have to the previous inhabitants of El Call.

Over time, the Jewish cemetery was forgotten. It wasn’t until excavations for the 1992 Olympic Games were underway that whole tombstones were unearthed—intact and in their original place. To date, over 60 reused stones from Montjuïc have been catalogued in various parts of the city, although the Palau del Lloctinent is where they are most visible. Local historians are convinced that more Hebrew-inscribed stones are yet to be discovered elsewhere.

Originally published June 2017, updated April 8, 2022.