A Bone to Pick: Carrer del Bisbe

One of the most photographed features of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter isn’t even 100 years old. The elaborate footbridge that spans Carrer del Bisbe, connecting the Palau de la Generalitat with the Casa dels Canonges, was only constructed in 1928. Neo-Gothic in style, the bridge is adorned with sculptures steeped in symbolism, typical of the Modernista architectural trend, and was designed by architect and disciple of Antoni Gaudí, Joan Rubió i Bellver.

In 1927, Rubió i Bellver, who worked for Barcelona City Council, was given the huge task of remodeling the Gothic Quarter in time for the 1929 International Exposition. His proposed project set out to intensify the old city’s Gothic style. The plan envisioned the destruction of all buildings surrounding the cathedral that were not Gothic in style, replacing them with Neo-Gothic structures and ornamentation, which would create more uniformity, albeit fake, within the city’s oldest neighborhood.

The proposal, however, was seen to be wildly ambitious and it was harshly criticized by prominent architectural circles in the city. Although Rubió i Bellver defended his plans, they were never accepted and instead reduced to the mere realization of this footbridge over Carrer del Bisbe. It is from this rejection that theories have emerged regarding quite an unusual feature included on the footbridge. If you look closely as you pass underneath the bridge, you will spot a somewhat out-of-place skull, pierced by a dagger. 

One of the more morbid theories suggests that the skull could be a symbol of death to his detractors, for denying Rubió i Bellver the opportunity to realize his architectural proposal. Another theory suggests that it could be a symbol that his project for the Gothic Quarter had been, figuratively, killed. Either way, the skull and its meaning remains an enigma today, and it has given way to various urban legends. Some say that if the dagger is removed from the skull, the city of Barcelona will tremble to such a degree that it would be reduced to rubble. Others claim that if you walk backwards underneath the bridge while fixating your gaze on the macabre feature, it will bring you good fortune.

Originally published December 2017, updated November 16, 2021.