Tastings: Garnatxa del Po

Garnatxa del Po

Clos 93, in the village of El Lloar, is one of those cellars in DOQ Priorat that exemplifies how the winemakers in this region more closely resemble those in Burgundy than anywhere else in Spain. With an annual production of just 12,000 bottles and a fully family-run affair, they’ve been able to focus on making small-production wines.

When the Grenache from one small, 60-year-old plot arrived from the vineyard, it was quite clear that it was different. They ran the sugar analysis in these grapes and it came out considerably lower than in regular Grenache grapes. It turned out to be Garnatxa del Po, which is a rather obscure clone of the variety that can be found randomly in vineyards thought to be fully Grenache.

From the tank, it’s directly bottled and then aged underground in a tranche of clay for two years. With only 118 bottles produced, the presentation design is appropriately unique—a clay box made by a local ceramicist, Lluís Riera, in the neighbouring village of Gratallops. It all makes for an attractive, unique package, although at €89, this is an expensive wine, even for Priorat.

Garnatxa del Po 2013

Deep purple coloration that crests with a ruby rim. Aromatically, light young plum notes waft from it along with charcoal notes, and then a clay minerality. Wild spiciness emerges with touches of black pepper and cloves. Initially light on the palate with medium acidity, but bounding in massive amounts of tannin for a Grenache. Very full in the mouth with a medium plus body, but then a medium finish. This is a wine that will easily stand to bottle age another three to five years to fully round out and integrate. €89.

Miquel Hudin is a sommelier originally from California but now based in Barcelona. He founded the Vinologue series of wine books www.vinologue.com.