Food Tales: Granja Viader

Every great local food business has a story, that’s what makes them unique and special. Foodie tour guide Misty Barker explores some of Barcelona’s tastiest hidden gems.

Authentic, olde worlde coffee shops can be hard to find, and few evoke a sense of true Catalan spirit like Granja Viader, situated on Carrer d’en Xuclà in the Raval. A plaque lies at the entrance to the shop, awarded by the city council to Barcelona’s most emblematic establishments. These plaques honour the city’s few remaining historical businesses and, whenever you stumble upon one, you know you’re somewhere special.

When Barcelona was a walled city, drinking milk wasn’t common. Without refrigeration it didn’t transport well, so it was nearly impossible to find. At the turn of the 19th century, many family businesses decided to overcome the transport problem by bringing cows into the city and keeping them in the back of their shops—indeed the word granja means farm. The Viader family was one such family, and, in 1870, they opened Granja M. Viader, specialising in dairy products.

One hundred and fifty years later, the ambience and charm remains, along with the same marble tables where they say Picasso used to sit and ponder over a cup of their legendary xocolata calenta (thick hot chocolate). The same recipe for this tasty drink has been passed down through five generations.

Today, the cows are gone, but the family legacy continues and it’s now managed by Mercè Viader, the great granddaughter of the founder, with the help of her two brothers and son. “We are the last dairy factory in the city centre. In our workshop, fresh cheeses are prepared and pasteurised here, just as they always have been,” Viader said proudly. Her favourite products are “the crema catalana, with a recipe over 100 years old, and Cacaolat, of course”. This popular chocolate drink was created by her great uncle, Joan Viader Roger, in 1931. Another notable family achievement.

This is one Barcelona coffee shop you should be familiar with. Just a stone’s throw from the tourist trail, here you can indulge your senses in a place steeped in culture and history. Freshly prepared cheeses adorn the counters and with a huge selection of tasty bocadillos, you won’t be left hungry. 

Tip: Try the mató (cottage cheese)—it’s a local favourite and is usually flavoured with some fruit. 

Granja Viader. Carrer d’en Xuclà 6. Mon-Sat 9am-1.15pm, 5pm-9.15pm. Sunday closed.