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Ancient Roman baths in Caldes de Montbui. Photo by Castellers d'Esplugues (Flickr).
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Casa Barbey, La Garriga. Photo by Laetitia Nunny (Wikimedia).
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Casa Barbey, La Garriga. Photo by Amador Alvarez (Wikimedia).
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Gate at Casa Barbey, La Garriga. Photo by Laetitia Nunny (Wikimedia).
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La Bombonera, La Garriga. Photo by Monika Rusch (Wikimedia).
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Interior of La Bombonera, La Garriga. Photo by Monika Rusch (Wikimedia).
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Església de Sant Miquel del Castell, Castellterçol. (Wikimedia)
The inland comarca (county) of Vallès Oriental lies in a pre-coastal depression east of Barcelona. Once peppered with agricultural communities, the county has seen some big changes in the past 100 years or so with the growth of industrial towns. But there’s no shortage of countryside, and the region has various areas of natural park, the largest of which is Montseny, at just over 30,000 hectares or nearly 75,000 acres.
Nature has also provided the area with another popular attraction: caldes (thermal mineral waters), which can reach up to 76 degrees Celsius (169 degrees Fahrenheit) in some places! During the 19th century, Barcelona’s wealthy elite capitalized on the natural oasis by building huge modernista mansions with sprawling gardens.
Font de Lleó, Caldes de Montbui. Photo by David Chacobo.
Yet the Vallès Oriental already had a hot reputation long before the Barcelona bourgeoisie arrived. In Caldes de Montbui, there are remains of ancient Roman baths that date back to the second and first centuries B.C. Although no longer in use, these baths can be toured and have modern-day spas that have been built around them.
The town is also home to the Museu Thermalia (Thermal Waters Museum), which occupies four floors of a 14th-century building and is dedicated to the balneari (spa) tradition. Both Caldes de Montbui and the nearby town of La Garriga have had an impressive list of household names visit their spas, including royalty, politicians, writers and artists. But it’s perhaps the name Raspall that locals most associate with the region.
Originally from Barcelona Manuel Joaquim Raspall i Mayol was an early 20th-century architect and student of Lluís Domènech i Montaner. Among his most celebrated works is L’Illa Raspall (Raspall’s Island), a block of four modernista summer mansions: Casa Barbey, Casa Barraquer, la Bombonera and la Torre Iris. He also undertook both private and public commissions in other towns in Vallès Oriental, including the comarca’s capital Granollers, as well as the towns of L’Ametlla del Vallès and Cardedeu, where you can tour his work in what’s called a “Ruta Raspall.”
It’s worth spending a few hours in Cardadeu to take a stroll around the Parc dels Pinetons or visit the Museu Arxiu Tomàs Balvey, home to the 19th-20th century pharmacy of local historian and pharmacist Balvey, filled with old bottles and jars, some of which still contain medicines, plants and herbs that he used in his apothecary.
Between the Montenegre-Corredor and Montseny mountain ranges in the east is Sant Celoni, whose highlights include the Església de Sant Martí and the 12th-century marketplace that’s still used for the weekly Wednesday market. It’s here that you can also watch the traditional 18th-century Ball de Gitanes (Gypsy Dance) in February for Carnaval.
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Església de Sant Martí, Sant Celoni. Photo by Angela Llop (Wikimedia)
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Tenes River falls, Sant Miquel del Fai. (Wikimedia)
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Tenes River falls, Sant Miquel del Fai. (Wikimedia)
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Sant Miquel del Fai. Photo by Anthiro (Wikimedia).
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Sant Miquel del Fai, chapel. (Wikimedia).
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Sant Miquel del Fai cave. (Wikimedia).
Going northwest, you won’t want to miss the ruins of a 9th-century castle at Castellterçol and other historic buildings like the house-turned-museum of Catalan nationalist figure Enric Prat de la Riba i Sarrà. Slightly farther south is the 15th-century cliff-top monastery of Sant Miquel del Fai, set in the beautiful surroundings of waterfalls, lakes, lush vegetation and caves.
The Vallès Oriental is crossed by both long GR (gran recorregut) and short PR (petit recorregut) hiking routes, which take in sights such as dolmens, hermitages and a variety of landscapes. All the natural parks are also excellent for walking, and nature buffs will be more than satisfied with the diversity of flora and fauna in each.
In stark contrast to the tranquillity of the region’s natural spaces is the Circuit de Barcelona-Catalunya, located in the south of the comarca. The track hosts international motor sport events, including the F1 Spanish Grand Prix, and has a number of activities on offer for the public. Guided tours of the track take visitors around the pit lanes and control tower, and aspiring Lewis Hamiltons can take race-car lessons or drive their own car or motorbike around the track.
Other outdoor activities in the region include paintball, quad bikes and archery and hot air balloon rides. For those who prefer to shop, there’s La Roca Village, an outlet mall featuring brands like Adolfo Dominguez, Miss Sixty and Camper.
The region produces a number of D.O. (denominació d’origen) products like the tomàquet rosa (pink tomato), mongetes del ganxet (white beans) and various cheeses, some preserved in olive oil. La Garriga is known for its botifarra — often served with beans — and Montseny for its embotits (cured meats). Local desserts include carquinyoli biscuits, almond-based pastries and the cumin and anise spiced borregos (twice-baked cookies) from Cardedeu.
This article has been adapted from a similar feature that appeared in Barcelona Metropolitan in 2007.