Eat: La Sal, Vilanova i la Geltru

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If the weather forecasts are anything to go by, the New Year in England this year will likely be spent snuggled up on a sofa avoiding the rain. Whereas, for contrast, the first days of a new year that I’ve spent in Barcelona have generally bought crisp, sapphire blue days that call for a blow-out-the-cobwebs walk by the sea. That said, this time of year, I recommend heading for the cliff path walk from Sitges to Vilanova followed by lunch at La Sal.  

My plan had been to have the menu (a bargain at €11.50 for three courses plus a half caraf of local wine), but I got waylaid by an announcement chalked up on a blackboard by the terrace: arroz specials - negre (enriched with squid ink and sepia); with confit of pigs trotters, ribs and trompetas de muerte (little black mushrooms), and with baby octopus and artichokes (all €13.90). Better yet, they do them for one. I skipped over to a sunny table on the terrace and settled in.  

Here, a freshly made arroz takes at least 30 minutes, which is only right, but while I waited I saw beautiful heaping Caesar salads, frothy creamed leeks and steaming bowls of garbanzos (chickpeas) a al Riojana make their way from the kitchen, followed by sturdy, iron casseroles of arroz amb bacalao, heaps of golden fried fish and deeply browned botifarra with fries. This was the stuff of the menu del día (with chocolate ice-cream sandwiches, coffee mousse or pineapple to finish) and by the time my own arroz arrived, a deep ruddy red with plump pink octopi generously studded through it alongside the pale green hearts of artichoke, I was slavering.  

What can I tell you? I sat there with the sun on my face thanking my lucky stars I live in such a beautiful place with such a great culinary heritage. The food at La Sal is wonderful, unpretentious and affordable. The setting with views over the clinking masts of the boats in port, a dining room should it get chilly in a fisherman’s townhouse complete with pretty blue shutters, and the delightful family who run it make this among my very favourite finds.

La Sal, Passeig Maritim 59-60. Vilanova I la Geltru. Tel: 660 939 167.