Deep in the forested heart of Collserola, the residential area of La Floresta has long been invisible to all but its inhabitants. With rambling streets full of colourful chalets tumbling down its verdant hilltops, it has the feel of a remote mountain retreat, even though it’s just on the other side of Mount Tibidabo.
It began in the early 1900s as an English-style garden suburb of exclusive holiday mansions for the Barcelonese bourgeoisie, dreamed up by Canadian railway engineer Frank S Pearson (who also built the railway line connecting Barcelona to the industrial towns of El Vallès).
By the Sixties, many of these wealthy weekenders had abandoned their mansions in the hills of Collserola for more glamorous settings on the coast. La Floresta, stripped of its glitz, seemed little more than a range of misty hills and a few run-down homes. But at the end of the decade, a new artistic, hippy community moved in, whose spirit survives today in numerous workshops and eco-homes, as well as commuting young professionals attracted by the combination of green spaces and good rail links.
In recent times, La Floresta has become a favourite weekend haunt of ramblers and cyclists, enticed by dozens of trails into the surrounding forest. An agreeably eccentric sort of place, where street signs declare the presence of wild boars and minimalist cube-houses jostle with okupas (squatters) and Modernista gems, it’s only 23 minutes from Plaça de Catalunya by train.
Eat
Located in Plaça del Centre, Piccola Cucina is not much to look at from the outside—it’s a converted garage with only two tables—but the reward is a delicious tasting menu of Italian treats you’ve probably never heard of. There’s no need to order, as the chef will politely let you know what he feels like cooking. Book in advance.
Alternatively, Rancho el Paso offers superb, rustic Catalan fare in a more conventional setting close to the station.
Photo courtesy of Piccola
Walk
A simple walk from the station leads down to the masía of Can Busquets in the valley below La Floresta. Begin by walking straight up the hill behind the station on Carrer Bona Vista, pausing for views of La Mola and Montserrat. Steps take you down the other side of the hill close to the old Casino La Floresta, now a cultural centre surrounded by quirky houses. Crossing the Carretera de Vallvidrera, a wooded trail called Avinguda Can Busquets curls down to Can Busquets itself, where there are lovely meadows and a stream with a pretty little waterfall—el gorg de Can Busquets—hidden amidst gnarled-up holly oaks. To get back to La Floresta, take Avinguda Tarruell through the woods and consider pausing for tea and a slice of cake in the fantastic Les Escales cafe overlooking Plaça del Centre.
Market
On Sundays, a bohemian market, with music events, second-hand swap stalls and street food, is held in the square beside the station and attracts crowds from the city.
Getting there
On the southern periphery of Sant Cugat, La Floresta is easily accessed by FGC trains (S1 and S2) from Catalunya (23 mins), Provença (20 mins) or Gràcia stations (17 mins). You’ll need a Zone 2 ticket.