Casa Blava is not cheap, but portions are enormous and one starter would have been more than enough between two: we tried an excellent ‘Audrey’ salad (with wild mushrooms, walnuts, grilled artichokes, mixed winter leaves, goat cheese topped with ever-fashionable shavings of fried yucca), and some chicken croquetas that were so dense and meaty that they laughed in the face of the fried tubes of béchamel that usually pass for croquettes in Restaurant-land.

The grilled meat—half a rabbit and a vast slab of rare entraña—was absolutely superlative, although so ample that we ended up taking most of it home in a doggy bag. Even so, the dessert menu read so well that we couldn’t resist and, fortunately, we plunged ahead to try a wonderful lavender sponge with a white chocolate and raspberry ganache and rich olive-oil ice cream drizzled in blackcurrant and txakoli sauce.

Be warned that Casa Blava is a local classic and booking ahead is essential.

****Casa Blava; Av. Verge de Montserrat 1, La Floresta. Tel. 93 674 9351; www.casablava.com. Open: Tues-Sat 1pm-4pm, 9pm-11pm & Sun lunchtime. Three courses à la carte plus drinks, around €35. Lunch menú: €20.