So that’s the outside. But there are no half measures on the inside. Hotels are the royal palaces of the 21st century, but instead of chandeliers and oil paintings, the vast lobby of ‘La Vela’ flaunts an LED-studded disco wall, another wall shimmering with thousands of sequins, a fireside infinity pool, a terrace the size of my hometown and a low Ibiza underbeat that keeps the rich and the beautiful pleasantly twitchy.

Naturally, the W has various bars and restaurants, but the star is Carles Abellan’s Bravo24. A protégé of Ferran Adrià and the owner of such modish establishments as Comerç24 and Tapas24, Abellan has come up with something quite different here: a grill. I was expecting some sort of avant-garde jiggery-pokery, but the website blurb talks instead of a meat-hanging room and the different woodchips used to bring certain aromas to each steak, which would be lovely except that it’s a brazen copy of—sorry, ‘homage to’—Basque grill king, Victor Arguinzoniz.

Wood is also foremost in the decor: hanging blond wood slats section off the dining room and what looks like hundreds of small IKEA bookshelves are stapled to the ceiling. If the pared-down style and bold lines look familiar that’s because they are: Sandra Tarruella is the interior designer for the many restaurants in the Grupo Tragaluz stable. It’s all low-key and serves mainly as non-decor, directing the gaze out to the magnificent terrace and the sea beyond.

Unusually for a hotel restaurant, the wine list is not too exclusive and has a large selection of bottles at €18 (all the way up to a €1,900 magnum of 2007 Pingús, should you feel like showing off). The menu is a much shorter read: for starters we plumped for meltingly soft grilled aubergine with garlic shoots, quivering bonito shavings and an earthy miso sauce. The other starter was an equally accomplished plate of lightly grilled sweetbreads (some of the best I’ve ever tasted) served with asparagus and chunks of baby squid.