Restaurant reviews

My friend and I sit down and grin. How could we not have known about this place? On later enquiry, I learn from a Catalan friend that people flocked here 10 years ago when it was known for its no nonsense seafood fests, but times and budgets have moved on, along with punters’ discovery of sushi and the designer restaurant experience. But I for one am happy these places still exist, not least because it’s remarkably fairly priced.

“Turbio or albariño?” asks our waitress smiling broadly. Most of the room is on the albariño so we follow suit and find an excellent example of the grape: fresh and lively with just enough ozone to bring out the natural saltiness of the food and indeed of the place itself. Unfortunately I can’t remember the name of it, but since there’s only one, you can’t go far wrong.

As I work my way down the chalked-up board I get carried away; “We’ll have that, and those, oh and those.” Our hostess gently raises her hand: “Señora” she says softly, “Es bastante.” More gold stars for those who know to tell you when to stop I say.

When I realise that each dish is somewhat large, will be individually cooked and brought in precision-timed courses, I couldn’t be happier. No fried chipirones congealing in greasy pools while you frantically suck down navajas before they turn rubbery. No flaccid, grilled sardines, or clammy patatas bravas. Casa José is nothing if not meticulous in its cooking standards.

We start with a Frisbee-sized dish of purple-lipped clams that pop with flavours of the sea and vine from the splash of wine they’ve been steamed in. Some good, crusty pan Gallego comes on the side. It is only when we have finished these and mopped up all the juices that a platter of thick, creamy navajas come off the grill, sweetly blackened on the outside, tender as butter in the middle.