Need to cool down after a long day soaking up the rays on the beach? As you wander home along Via Laietana, take a right into the warren of narrow alleys between Carrer Princesa and the Palau de la Música and you'll find a host of shady terraces, tree-lined pedestrian streets and little squares that are just perfect for kicking back and watching the world go by. Tucked behind the fancy-roofed Mercat Santa Caterina is tiny Plaça Sant Cugat. Lined with bars and restaurants and chock-a-block with tables in the shade, it's a world away from the edginess of adjoining Carrer Carders.