by Julie Sheridan

February 1, 2012

I know, I know, I can almost hear you groan from here. And I don’t blame you. I haven’t even been in the city for a year and I’m already bored to death of the hounding and harangue that seem steadfast sidekicks of this very topic.

Frankly, I don’t suppose for a minute you’re remotely interested in hearing another randomer trotting out tropes and tripe on the rights and wrongs of Spanish versus Catalan, he-said-she-said or whose parliament goes back farther. Believe me—I have used every dilatory tactic known to our species to avoid tackling this subject ever since I got here.

But here’s what does interest me. First, how pervasive it is. And second, how I’m not allowed/supposed to talk about it.

Hanging with the clan

Every time I answer the question “Where are you from?”, it begins. Taxi drivers, shopkeepers, people at work. “Ah, one of our Scottish cousins!” is the fairly standard response. My nationality seems to confer tacit admission into some level of Catalan society. Cousin is kin, and kin implies collusion. The implication? That we’re all somehow in it together, we victims of imperialist expansion, but one day shall be avenged.

I do understand where this perceived similarity comes from, of course. (Even I play on the theme on my own blog, subtitled ‘from Caledonia to Catalonia’. To call it pure word play would be disingenuous.) Several Scots settlers here have told me that they specifically chose Catalunya for its notional ties with Scotland, perceiving a Celtic rather than Latin temperament in conservative Catalan society. A Catalan architect, Enric Moralles, even designed the Scottish parliament.

In fact, the correspondence hasn’t gone unnoticed in recent days, hot on the heels of news that Scotland proposes to hold its first independence referendum in 2014. Its cage rattled, Madrid’s response was swift: a likely veto for any official Scottish moves towards independence, as an action that could only embolden Catalan separatist sentiment. (Thanks, Alex. Just when I thought my taxi journeys couldn’t get any more hairy.)

Taking off the tapa

Even more sinister has been my experience, as an outsider, of being dragged into debates about the topic of Catalan nationalism. “Go home”, is the unequivocal message. Meanwhile, both Catalans and people from other parts of Spain have explicitly warned me off even broaching the subject in any online medium. “Keep quiet”, they warn, “or you will never work in Catalunya again."

Strong stuff, eh? Naturally, being told not to talk about something is like a red rag to Castilian bull, intriguing me even further. The things that society refuses to look at are the most compelling nooks of all crannies.

At the same time, silencing debate doesn’t bode well for Catalunya’s future, whether it follows its big cousin into referendum territory or not. Will be fascinating to see how it all develops. In the meantime, I’m just praying they don’t introduce bagpipes to Barcelona’s street corners. Now there’s a reason worth moving to England for.

Julie Sheridan, a copywriter, translator and poet, blogs at guirigirlinbarca

by Julie Sheridan

February 1, 2012

Latest Comments

  • Allowed to talk about it?

    Dear Julie: it was kind of surprising to read how difficult it seems for you to be "admitted" in a regular conversation about the Catalan question, here in Catalonia, among locals or a mixture of locals and non-locals. As a Catalan, I've always felt quite the opposite: a local starts a conversation on the subject (carefully avoiding to do that every ten minutes, that's right) and the average non-local will immediately start showing non-verbal or verbal signs of boredom (if lucky), or directly speaking out their suspicious neutrality on the question. Why suspicious? Because in a big percentage of cases like this, the non-local tends to be a person who arrived in Catalonia without knowing (wanting to know?) much about the strong identity of this territory, their miserable economic situation in terms of Central Spanish spoliation, their love to the language (next to their gladness of speaking Spanish too), their powerful spirit of showing themselves to the world the real way they are, and therefore, their strong will of self-determination as a free nation among the other European countries. So the average reaction, unfortunately, is more on the side of deception or disappointment when realising that he/she tremendously failed on landing on that pre-conceived idea of Barcelona: that lovely Spanish paradise that consists of a mad mixture of a Cosmopolitan great European city by the sea, and yet a place where improve their Spanish, eat tapas until 1:00 AM and party like hell. Then, the non-acceptance internal dialogue of this archetype person non-local would be something like "Jeez, again with the Catalan thing ... Why the f**k don't they give up? Spain is a marvellous country, and Spanish is a beautiful language ... ", while the external verbal position would be something on the side, as I said, of "neutrality". Only the true open-minded non-Catalan born persons will be capable (and generous enough) to jump out of their narcissistic point of view and truly understand the situation here, commit with the dreams of this bloody, unbowed Catalans, freely mix with them, avoid any comparison with Scottish, Quebequian, Basque or Flemish situations, and finally show some respect for this little country which is just gagging to explain to you, with joyful eyes, what the hell is this silenced question about, "now that someone out there is listening". So please, let yourself go and start to realise how easy it is to speak about all that among Catalans, if only you freed yourself from pre-conceived own ideals or prejudices against national cries for freedom. And of course, I know you will forgive my poor English above. Your Catalan, I'm sure, is much better.

    Posted by Xavier April 05, 2012 13:34:06

  • Reply to Lin

    Thanks for your comments Lin. I actually agree with you that the Catalan people should be allowed to have a referendum, and, of course all the other regions in the EU who have an identity and language which is different from the one their passport favours. I am by no means a Spanish nationalist and dislike all 'isms' and would rather not see a world with even more frontiers. I think the problem if a referendum were to yield a 'yes' to independence is that it would cause a huge amount of conflict between Catalonia, the rest of Spain, the EU and maybe countries further afield. Would it really be feasable and worth it? I have lived here for many years and have contributed to the Catalan economy. Does that make me a Catalan person elligible to vote? How would you define 'The Catalans? You mention the present is what counts, and I agree. We live in a young and inmature democracy. Maybe if the politicians mature and are capable of having real debates and actually listening to each other, a lot of problems could be ironed out without creating new borders.

    Posted by Paul Malcolm February 07, 2012 01:06:13

  • Charging the red rag

    Anecdotally, many foreigners here tell me they wish the Catalan issue was put to bed once and for all, but they keep quiet when the issue of politics/separatism comes up, because their opinions as outsiders are not welcome. Yet at the same time, a Catalan friend pointed out to me that here, war stories are not fireside tales – they are within living memory. You only need to look at what’s happening right now to Garzón to see the degree to which Spain’s not-so-distant history still rankles. What depresses me is that these shades of grey, which I and no doubt other foreigners perceive, are not even admitted into the conversation. And I suspect it will remain a monochrome minefield for some time to come.

    Posted by Julie Sheridan February 03, 2012 22:42:37

  • Answer to Paul Malcolm

    Paul, I think that the fact that Catalunya was never an established nation-state does not say anything about whether it should become one or not. No political state that exists today has existed since the beginning of time. The Catalans were however a nation (in the sense of people with common language and culture) at the time that Spain unified in a kingdom. In the end the decisive factor should be the present and not the past.
    And as for the EU, I am hardly under the same impression. As a matter of fact it seems most of the EU is looking to expand, though it is not a question that everyone agrees on and there are people who are against it.
    I think many people do not actually consider the question at heart and just think that the borders they learned in school are the most natural ones, but are they?
    I think it is for the Catalan people to decide.

    Posted by Lin February 03, 2012 14:36:30

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