Rosa Solà Maset
Rarely have I been to an event at the Boqueria that attracted quite so many members of the press. But Rosa Solà Maset—the president of the Barcelona division of Slow Food Catalunya—clearly struck a chord with the release of her guide to KM0 restaurants in Catalunya.
KM0 is a farm-to-table project set up by Slow Food that certifies restaurants serving local, organic and indigenous foods that have come from farms less than 100 kilometres away. There are 60 of them in Spain, more than a third of those in Catalunya, and the turnout last week in the aula above the Boqueria market was testament to how far the movement has come not just in terms of home cooking, but for eating out too.
With introductions by Carlo Petrini, the founder of Slow Food International, and Ferran Adrià, the guide weaves a path across Catalunya from the medieval streets of Barcelona’s Barri Gòtic to the plains of Lleida, high into the Pyrenees and along the beaches of the Costas Brava and Daurada in search of sustainable sustenance. The 24 entries introduce a network of pioneers who rally against the endless meddling our food is subjected to while providing readers an address book for some of the region's rarest jewels.
Located in beautiful old stone masies, cliff-top villas and on remote country farms, the chefs that run them are passionate about their produce and where it comes from, deeply respectful of tradition, yet frequently playful and highly creative in their approach. Written in Catalan with an English translation alongside, this is one of the best-focused guides to eating out in Catalunya yet, and a wonderful excuse for getting out and exploring one of the most diverse regions in Spain.
The Guia de Restaurant KM0 retails at €15 and includes a strip of discount vouchers for the restaurants featured. It is available through www.pol-len.cat