Crisp and appley, this complex white makes a good partner to mid-week roast chicken.
Rupestris 2009, Bodegas Pardas, Penedès D.O.
Not convinced of the power of a good food and wine combination? Consider this. On my first sip of this white I wasn’t wild about it. I was seduced by the very pretty label, but on opening found it a bit racy: too cold, too green, too acidic and just a little bit cheek sucking. Not a great combination for an aperitif wine. I put the cork back in it, put it back in the fridge and revisited it the following night.
This time I hauled it out the fridge half an hour before pouring my first glass. It had improved markedly. Still lots of acidity—the kind that makes you salivate wildly–but this time there were traces of honey and gooseberry as well as the bright, green apple flavours that make it almost, though not quite, like a cider.
It still wasn’t completely doing it for me until the third night, when I threw together a favourite mid-week supper: wedges of potato, apples and Figueres onions tossed in a little olive oil, salt and pepper and a bay leaf. A couple of meaty chicken legs and thighs also rubbed with oil, salt and pepper, and placed on top. Roast for about 45 minutes in a 200ºC oven and out it comes, crispy skinned, juicy and succulent with deeply flavoured veggies to go with it and a bit of ‘gravy’ in the bottom of the pan.
Finally Rupestris started to do its job. With the chuck it made a wonderful bed partner, bright and lively without making your eyes water, packing lots of autumnal flavours and aromas. You can find it at Quimet i Quimet, C/Poeta Cabanyes 25, Poble Sec who are also currently serving it by the glass as their weekly white. €8.50 a bottle.