While the imported varieties are perfectly good substitutes, so many air miles inevitably take their toll, as much on the environment as the product itself. Fresh, locally produced asparagus may be a little harder to come by, but a search through the markets in the next few weeks is worth the trouble for those who want to make the most of the season.
Cultivation is shared between a number of regions and is determined largely by the soil type, as the plant grows best in loose, sandy soils with good drainage. The highest production is found in Andalusia, followed by Castilla La Mancha, Extremadura, Aragon and Catalunya. Navarra is also famous for its asparagus and was awarded the Denominación de Origen for the white variety, the tips of which are covered and kept out of sunlight, which prevents the development of chlorophyll. Harvests are made from March into early June, although the exact start of the season is anyone’s guess. As consumers, we can reasonably assume that it begins when the first bunches (or manats) appear in the markets, although Eduard Soley, who owns a stall in the Boqueria and knows more than most about asparagus, is adamant that the season gets underway on St Joseph’s Day (March 19th) and not before.
Catalunya has a long history of growing asparagus, although production has fallen dramatically in recent years as the quality and availability of imported varieties has increased. One of the largest Catalan producers, which still distributes from Mataró, uprooted its operation some years ago and moved to Peru, where it grows larger amounts and saves on labour costs, although it still exports to Catalunya.
One example of local celebration of the vegetable is the annual Fira d'Espàrrecs (Asparagus Fair) in Gavà, first held in 1932. Although interrupted by the Civil War and post-War troubles, the fair resumed at the beginning of the Sixties, and in its 54th edition in early May, will welcome over 200,000 visitors. While the asparagus still takes centre stage, the fair has also become a showcase for a variety of local agricultural products and businesses, and is an important event in the cultural calendar of the town. On the weekend of March 10th-11th, local visitors to Godall in Montsià, the southernmost comarca of Catalunya can enjoy the fourth Fira de l'Oli i l'Espàrrec (Olive Oil and Asparagus Fair), which awards a prize to the best local asparagus and offers a chance to sample the local olive oil and see a selection of photos charting the history of agriculture in the area. Closer to home, Badalona holds its own asparagus fair at the beginning of this month, which is now into its 16th year.
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